tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59274525531866729732024-03-13T04:46:30.686-07:00Molly's KnittingMolly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-89802601906546904022012-12-06T10:14:00.001-08:002012-12-06T10:14:16.380-08:00A New Formula I think will be very handy<a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2256/2347898109_e589a526bb_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="photo_image" height="320" id="photo_image_2034152" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2256/2347898109_e589a526bb_z.jpg" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; border-color: initial; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 1px; border-right-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 1px; border-top-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-top-style: solid; border-top-width: 1px; border-width: initial;" width="212" /></a>I was looking for a sweater to make for Emily using a motley pink yarn that she had picked out. I only bought three 100 gram balls as the yarn was a bit expensive and very flashy. But then the problem of finding something unique to do with the yarn, but only requiring 300 grams, or 600 yards to fit a six year old. One pattern that I liked was an adult sweater called <a href="http://www.shapingdesign.com/Portals/0/involving/shalom_cardigan.pdf">Shalom</a> that was knit at a tension of 13 stitches per 10 cm. The yarn for Emily's sweater has a tension of 20 stitches per 10 cm. Also, the sweater produced a 33 inch chest, and I think for Emily I would need a 24 inch chest on the sweater. So how to accommodate all the variables? <br />
<br />
After running this all around in my head, scrutinizing the patterns directions, I came up with a formula that I think just might work. If:<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #eeeeee;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">x = desired size</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"> y = original size</span><br />
<a href="http://www.imagiknit.com/PDGImages/encore_colorspun_7178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Encore Colorspun Worsted" border="0" class="product_image" height="200" id="prod_image" name="my_image" src="http://www.imagiknit.com/PDGImages/encore_colorspun_7178.jpg" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; border-color: initial; border-color: initial; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-style: initial; border-style: initial; border-top-width: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin-top: 0px; outline-color: initial; outline-style: initial; outline-width: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" width="200" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"> a = original tension</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"> b = desired tension</span><br />
<br />
Then: the adjustment factor need is<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;">y/x times b/a</span><br />
<br />
or:<br />
<br />
33/24 times 13/20<br />
<br />
which equals 1.1188 <br />
<br />
Now my physics professor in college said that there's no point going beyond the second decimal place,<br />
so I have a factor of 1.12.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--JdtBKJp2WM/UL0hjCiH1GI/AAAAAAAAGLk/Ke73glEPF-k/s1600/163053_1741641788154_1451982449_1825547_505542_n-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--JdtBKJp2WM/UL0hjCiH1GI/AAAAAAAAGLk/Ke73glEPF-k/s1600/163053_1741641788154_1451982449_1825547_505542_n-1.jpg" /></a></div>
<div>
So with the formula in hand I shall now try to see if it works by knitting this sweater for Emily, who is pictured at left in the last sweater that I made for her. It was a pattern that I found in a 1950's McCall pattern for a pleated skirt and jacket, with the sweater pattern thrown in for good measure. That was back in the day when it was assumed that women knew how to do all sorts of things. But then that's another story.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I will now make the sweater as long, relatively speaking, for Emily. And I'm really hoping that I can find a really cool butterfly button for the sweater.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Yarn: Plymouth Yarn, Encore Colospun</div>
<div>
Tension: 5 sts per 10 cm</div>
<div>
Needles: I'll have to check this out.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The sweater is knit from the top down.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Starting with the neck, using _____ needles, cast on 75 stitches.</div>
<div>
Knit the next 5 rows - that's in garter stitch.</div>
<div>
Make button hole: knit 2, yf, k2tog, knit to the end.</div>
<div>
Knit the next row.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This next row is a tricky one. I think I will increase 44 stitches, which will give me 119 stitches.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
First Increase row: knit 5, (M1, k1, M1, k2) repeat to last 7, then M1,k1, M1, k6 (119 sts)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Next row: knit</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Start the yoke pattern:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
row 1: k5, (p1tbl, k1) repeat to the last 6 stitches, p1tbl, k5</div>
<div>
row 2: k5, (k1tbl, p1) repeat to the last 6 stitches, k1tbl, k5</div>
<div>
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Next row: knit</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Second Increase Row: This will be increasing 30 stitches</div>
<div>
k5, (M1, k3, M1, k4, M1, k4) repeat to last 15, then M1, k3, M1, k4, M1, k8.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
to be continued</div>
<br />
<div>
</div>
Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-71898325661658581222011-03-01T08:07:00.001-08:002011-03-01T08:33:10.731-08:00What on earth have I been up to!?I can't believe that I haven't posted on this site for 2 years!!!! You'd think I'd given up knitting. Well I haven't . But I have been through a lot of troubles in the missing time, making me a bit dysfunctional. But not to worry - I'm still knitting.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_NTkly44kn0/TW0edLkCQMI/AAAAAAAAF3E/drREyoJGbUo/s1600/DSC_0128.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_NTkly44kn0/TW0edLkCQMI/AAAAAAAAF3E/drREyoJGbUo/s320/DSC_0128.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5579149000050884802" /></a>I got a new grand-daughter last May - Lizzie (Ellie as her parents call her). I've made three sweaters for her, two pairs of leggings, and two pairs of mittens. I also made a sweater and 2 pairs of mittens for her brother. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8aUr49LaJAk/TW0dx_YWWGI/AAAAAAAAF28/Ja-_ilEH2p8/s1600/163053_1741641788154_1451982449_1825547_505542_n.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 402px; height: 480px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8aUr49LaJAk/TW0dx_YWWGI/AAAAAAAAF28/Ja-_ilEH2p8/s320/163053_1741641788154_1451982449_1825547_505542_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5579148258046269538" /></a>And I made a gorgeous purple vintage cardi for Emily, grand-daughter #1, with mittens to match. I've also made two pairs of mittens for myself, having lost my favorite pair.<br /><br />And then there's the preemie hats - I've made seventeen of them. Now I just need to find out who to give them to. This is highly problematic. I was supposed to send them to New York by a certain date, but due to unforeseen happenings I missed the date. I'm thinking that I will just send them off to New York anyway. They can surely figure out what to do with them The preemie hats are a perfect fit on a Pleasant Company doll. I took a picture of each hat on a doll.<br /><br />Well very soon I hope to load up some pictures, and also I will post the patterns for some of the hats and such.<br /><br />My very latest project is a pair of socks for ME. I've come to the realization that home-made socks are in fact better than store bought. I'm making a pair out of bamboo and nylon from one of my favorite knitting books - Folk Socks, by Nancy Bush. It is called Challet Sock, and is patterened with twisted traveling stitches. At first it was a bit hard to figure out, and I'm not saying I've totally figured it out, but what I've got looks good, so I'm going with it.<br /><br />Be Back.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-88480830747840708652009-02-22T15:57:00.000-08:002009-03-18T15:05:24.687-07:00A suit for a 15 inch "barbie" I've named GenvieveThis doll came with a "barbie type" dress that I didn't like, so I took it off and gave it to goodwill. Then I got a skirt made for her, but she REALLY needs a jacket to go with the skirt. I say "jacket" because she looks like she's from the 40s and a suit would be what she's should wear. It's going to be a jacket with a peplum (sp).<br /><br />material: green Beehive 4ply<br />tension: 30 sts/ 10 cm<br />needles: 2 1/2 mm<br /><br />Dolls measurements:<br />.....waist: 5 1/2 inches<br />.....bust: 7 1/2 inches<br />.....back 3 inches<br />.....neck to waist - 3 inches<br />.....top of arm to neck 1 inch<br />.....neck: 3 1/4 inches<br />.....arm hole to wrist: 4 inches<br />.....upper arm: 2 1/2 inches<br />.....wrist: 1 3/4 inches<br />.....across front of chest: 4 1/2 inches<br />.....neck to feet: 12 1/2<br />.....waist to floor: 10<br />.....hips: 8 1/2 inches<br />.....head circumferance: 7 1/2 inches<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 102, 102);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:x-large;">Skirt</span></span></span><br /><br />Using size 2 1/2 mm double pointed needles, cast on 150 stitches.<div>1st 5 rnds: (k10, p5) repeat around</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">6th rnd: (k4, k2tog, k4, p5) repeat around</span></div><div>7th - 10th rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);">11th rnd: (k9, p3, p2tog) repeat around</span></div><div>12th - 15th rnds: work as presented</div><div>1<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">6th rnd: (k3, ssk, k4, p4) repeat around</span></div><div>17th - 20th rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);">21st rnd: (k8, p2, p2tog) repeat around</span></div><div>22nd - 25th rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">26th rnd: (k3, k2tog, k3, p3) repeat around</span></div><div>27th - 30th: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);">31st rnd: (k7, p1, p2tog) repeat aroun</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(153, 51, 0);">d</span></div><div>32nd - 35th rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">36th rnd: (k2, ssk, k3, p2) repeat around</span></div><div>37th -40th rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">41st rnd (k2, k2tog, k2, p2) repeat around</span></div><div>42nd - 45th rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">46th rnd: (k2, k2tog, k1, p2) repeat around</span></div><div>47th - 50th rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">51st rnd: (k1, ssk, k1, p2) repeat around</span></div><div>52nd - 53rd rnds: work as presented</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">54th rnd: (k1, k2tog, p2) repeat around</span></div><div>work seven rounds in 2/2 ribbing</div><div>Cast off.</div><div>Weave in the ends.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 102, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:x-large;">Jacket</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 0, 153);">peplum</span></div><div>With 2 1/2 mm needles cast on 6 stitches.</div><div>Work as follows: k2, (p2, k4) repeat to last 4 sts, p2, k2</div><div>Working back and forth, knit stitches as present for 8 more rows.</div><div>Decrease row: ssk, (p2, k2tog, ssk) repeat to last 4 sts, p2, k2tog.</div><div>Work 5 rows of 2/2 ribbing.</div><div>Work now in stocking stitch.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">bodice</span></div><div><blockquote>note: the first 10 stitches are the right front, the next 20 stitches are the back, and the final 10 stitches are the left front. To the armhole will be 14 rows. There will be 6 sts increased on each front and 10 stitches will be increased for the back.</blockquote></div><div>Work 2 rows in stocking stitch. Then on the back increase one stitch on each side on the 3rd and every following alternate row until 10 stitches have been increased on the back. Also increase on the side fronts on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th increase rows, and also increase on the front dart on the 2nd, 4th, and 6th increase rows.</div><div><br /></div><div><blockquote>note: the dart on the left front knit 5, m1, knit to the side seam. Then the dart for the right front is knit to the stitch just before the last five, m1, knit 5.</blockquote></div><div><br /></div><div>.</div><div>. I'll write up the rest of this in a bit.</div><div>.</div><div>Sleeves:</div><div>Cast on 13 stitches.</div><div>row 1: k1, p1, k1, ...</div><div>row 2: purl</div><div>row 3 k1, p1, k1, ....</div><div>Now work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 11th, 21st, and 31st rows.</div><div>When there are 40 rows in all, start the decreases.</div><div>row 41: cast off 2 sts, work to end.</div><div>row 42: cast of 2 sts, purl to the end.</div><div>row 43: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1</div><div>work 5 more rows in stocking stitch, then decrease the top.</div><div>row 49: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1</div><div>row 50: p1, p2tog, purl to the last 3, p2togtbl, p1</div><div>row 51: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1</div><div>row 52: this is the cast off row, but for something different, the first 2 sts, and the last 2 sts are p2tog. This helps round the top.</div><br /><br />At this point sew sew up the front to the back, and sew in the sleeves.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-35037088379852280762008-12-26T13:31:00.000-08:002008-12-26T14:47:30.816-08:00A New Knitting Book for Christmas<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SVVWGRJNB0I/AAAAAAAAEes/p5O2-rqoOS4/s1600-h/51CBoSB4FeL._SL500_AA240_.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 196px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SVVWGRJNB0I/AAAAAAAAEes/p5O2-rqoOS4/s320/51CBoSB4FeL._SL500_AA240_.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284224403470354242" /></a><br /><br />It's not quite right if one doesn't get a knitting book for Christmas. The one I got I actually picked out myself. Well actually, one could not possibly think that their husband could pick out a knitting book all by himself. The fun thing is that I had completely forgotten about the book, so it really was a surprise.<br /><br />I received Nicky Epstein's new book <span style="font-style:italic;">Knitting On Top of the World</span>. It's an incredible book. In my estimation Nicky Epstien is the most amazing knitter and designer. I can't right off the bat think of another American knitting designer that I like - okay I just remembered - it's Nancy Bush. She's also amazing.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SVVeFujBeCI/AAAAAAAAEe0/bZ6vfILBSfU/s1600-h/blog-nicky-lysowners.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 162px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SVVeFujBeCI/AAAAAAAAEe0/bZ6vfILBSfU/s200/blog-nicky-lysowners.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284233190276429858" /></a>I was reading the reviews of this book on Amazon, and for the most part people don't like it. But a few free thinkers liked it very much. I think it's terrific, though I'll be the first to admit that there are many objects in the book I'd never make. But most knitting books are like that. At least the ones I wouldn't make have scope for the imagination, and that's worth a lot.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SVVeeO1okII/AAAAAAAAEe8/44EEY7WLh8k/s1600-h/L9781933027678.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 183px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SVVeeO1okII/AAAAAAAAEe8/44EEY7WLh8k/s200/L9781933027678.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284233611261284482" /></a>Take for example the Edwardian lace coat on the cover. No matter how it was designed, I wouldn't make something like that, but there are numerous lace patterns in that coat that would be great for a scarf or baby blanket. Or how about the Fair Isle Tam Capelet - that thing is so ridiculous that it gave me and my family all a good laugh.<br /><br />I think that the Black Forest Mitts are gorgeous, but I would not make the bobbly buffs, that's just a bit much for me.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-90116073188573720172008-12-18T22:59:00.000-08:002008-12-18T23:41:28.524-08:00Mittens for EmilyI tried several mittens before I got it right. It's because it got quite cold. The first mitten I tried was chunky, and much much too small. The second mitten was not quite as chunky, but in the end was too small, and too difficult to get her thumb in the thumb place. So finally I came to the conclusion that you can't really make chunky mittens for a two year old. At that I did a lot of research, looking at other people's patterns for mittens for kids. I could see that Emily is just on the borderline between thumb/no thumb. And then while I was going all the looking, I also inadvertently came across a ball of wool that I'd been looking for for quite some time, and it seemed perfect. It's the same yarn that I used for the little mitten I had made for Emily when she was three months old.<br /><br />I settle on making a mitten that is of lovely part angora wool and knits at a tension of 22 stitches to the 10 cm. The yarn is from Italy, and I'm quite certain it's not sold in America any more, but it's fabulous stuff. I tried the unfinished mitten on Emily as soon as I could, and I could see that she really liked it. It's soooo soft.<br /><br />Material: Illusion Tweed, by Erdal Yarns (50% angora, 25% lambswool, 10% nylon, 15% acrylic) 20 grams<br />Needles: double pointed 4 mm needles<br />Tension: 22 stitches per 10 cm<br /><br />Cast on 28 stitches (10, 8, 10) and work in 1/1 ribbing for 4 rows.<br />Purl a round, then work 2 rows in 1/1 ribbing.<br />Purl a round, then work 3 rows in 1/1 ribbing. (This is a mistake, but if I'm to get the other mitten to match I have to go with it.)<br />Pulr a round, and work 4 rows in 1/1 ribbing.<br />This next round is to bring the cuff in just a bit for snugness.<br />Cr3F, p1, repeat all the way around.<br />Work 2 round in 1/1 ribbing.<br /><br />Work 2 round in stocking stitch.<br />Now start the increase for the gusset:<br />K14, M1, K14.<br />work one round even<br />K14, M1, K1, M1, K14<br />work one round even<br />K14, M1, K3, M1, K14<br />work one round even<br />K14, M1, K5, M1, K14<br />work one round even<br />K14, M1, K7, M1, K14<br />work one round even<br />On this next round the thumb is put on a length of yarn.<br />K14, slip next 9 stitches on to a short piece of yarn, K14<br />Work 15 rows in stocking stitch.<br /><br />Decrease for the top of the mitten:<br />Place the stitches so that the first needle has 14 stitches, and the next two each have 7 stitches.<br />rnd 1:( K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k4)(k4, k2tog, k1)<br />rnd 2: work even<br />rnd 3: (k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k3)(k3, k2tog, k1)<br />rnd 4: work even<br />rnd 5: (k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k2)(k2, k2tog, k1)<br />rnd 6: (k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k1)(k1, k2tog, k1)<br />rnd 7: (k1, ssk, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk)(k2tog, k1)<br /><br />Break off the yarn and put the end on a needle and thread through the stitches.<br /><br />Thumb: Place the reserved stitches on to needles, three to a needle.<br />Knit up 11 stitches, beginning by picking up a stitch, then knitting the nine stitches, then pick up another stitch.<br />Knit 4 more rounds.<br />Decreasing the tip of the thumb: <br />rnd 1: k1, ssk, knit to the last three stitches, k2tog, k1<br />rnd 2: work even<br />rnd 3: ssk, k1, ssk, k1, ssk, k1<br />Break off the yarn, and thread through the stitches.<br /><br />Sew in the ends;<br /><br />Make another one to match.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-70955924434751588432008-10-12T12:18:00.000-07:002008-11-29T22:39:20.148-08:00Starting a new sweater for Emily<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SPQJ7Q_PruI/AAAAAAAADFI/gmRRB8IGtvE/s1600-h/DSC_0125.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SPQJ7Q_PruI/AAAAAAAADFI/gmRRB8IGtvE/s320/DSC_0125.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256837578825379554" /></a><br />This is going to be a new one like the red one I made last winter. I put it on her the other day - because it was suddenly quite cold - and it fit her perfectly, even though she has grown. I made that same sweater several times in the past for my girls and for a niece. It's definitely one of my all time favorite patterns. Of course I've only made it for girls, but now I have a new little grandson. I think it would work just fine for a boy, but the boy's parents might think otherwise.<br /><br />Yarn - 4 ply or fingering - sock wool is fine, but anything that gets a 7-8 inches per inch tension<br />needles needed to get that tension, two sizes - one for ribbing and one for the main knitting<br /><br />For this sweater I'm using Sirdar Snuggly 4 ply - starlight<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SPQMVN-2VeI/AAAAAAAADFQ/VNULaymYyNU/s1600-h/0203_368.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SPQMVN-2VeI/AAAAAAAADFQ/VNULaymYyNU/s320/0203_368.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5256840223718266338" /></a><br />My needles are a 2.5 mm needles and 11 UK needles (3 mm I think)<br />Neither of these have an American equivalent.<br />Just get your tension right on whatever needles you have.<br /><br />Size: this will be a size 2, from the late 1970's<br />In other words, it fits snugly.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Back:</span> Cast on 89 stitches on the smaller needles.<br />Work for 16 rows in 2/2 ribbing.<br />Change to the larger needles and work in stocking stitch for 48 rows.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><span style="font-style:italic;">armhole:</span></span> Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. (81 sts)<br />Then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 18 rows. (63 sts).<br />Now work in stocking stitch for the next 26 rows.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><span style="font-style:italic;">slope the shoulders:</span><br /><blockquote>row 1: cast off 6 stitches, knit to the end.<br />row 2: cast off 6 stitches, purl to the last 2, then purl 2 together through the back of the loop.<br />row 3: ssk, then cast off 4, then knit to the last 2 stitches and knit those two together.<br />row 4: purl 2 together, cast off 4, purl to the end.</blockquote><br />Place the remaining 39 stitches on some kind of stitch holder.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Sleeves:<span style="font-style:italic;"></span></span><br /><br />I am making both of these on the same needles, or at the same time. <br /><br />with the 2.5 mm needles cast on - - stitches from one ball of wool, and then -- stitches from another ball of the same wool. Then work in 2/2 ribbing for - - rows.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-42573311111877522092008-08-23T08:03:00.000-07:002008-10-10T15:51:18.473-07:00ScarvesI have never completed an adult scarf. I find it sooooo tedious to knit one. But that doesn't mean I haven't started them, or that I don't intend to finish them.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SLAo-G2ZP3I/AAAAAAAAC0g/MMHx8n-TVjs/s1600-h/B01480.jpeg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SLAo-G2ZP3I/AAAAAAAAC0g/MMHx8n-TVjs/s200/B01480.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237731414087647090" /></a>The first one of importance is an Alice Starmore scarf from <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">In the Hebrides</span>. It's more of a shawl than a scarf, and I'm making it out of an Alice Starmore wool in red. But alas, I don't know where the last ball of wool is, and ... a moth ate through a strand of the wool. I know ... I should keep my unfinished (and finished) wool projects in a cedar chest or I should make a cedar closet to keep my wool. It's a very lacy pattern, and I'm not sure how I will mend the hole created by the moth. I hate moths!!!!!!!!!!!<br /><br />I'm also knitting a lovely natural alpaca scarf for Corey. I started it a loonngg time ago, but it is so lovely. The problem is that I made up the pattern myself, and I have trouble remembering what it is when I start up knitting it from time to time. And at the moment I have no idea where it is. I really must come to terms with my unfinished projects. What that means is that I simply must finish them!<br /><br />And if I remember correctly, I was working on a scarf with a pattern that someone got from a lady in the Metro in Paris. I can't even remember what I was making it out of. But if I know me it was red. I LOVE RED.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-34431754235099659742008-04-24T07:59:00.000-07:002012-12-10T08:25:17.007-08:00A Nit for Emily's New Baby.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SBCoPHnRb2I/AAAAAAAABlU/QPeGahW7XJw/s1600-h/DSC_0075.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="311" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5192835348053454690" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SBCoPHnRb2I/AAAAAAAABlU/QPeGahW7XJw/s400/DSC_0075.jpg" style="float: right; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="400" /></a></div>
Emily loves "babies", but she is particular. She and I went to Goodwill the other day and of course she was keen to look at the "babies". But as we slowly cruised the aisle with the toys she was very carefully looking at all the dolls and occasionally she would request to see one up close. For the majority of the dolls she would inspect them and then she'd hand the "baby" to me and say "back". But eventually, after cruising the aisle twice she settled on one that she really liked. It was a soft body doll with no hair and eyes that open and close. And of course it has not clothes. In the basket aisle I found a lovely little basket doll carrier that is a perfect size this doll. I do have a pattern that is perfect for this doll, but this is a knitting site, and what I going to put here is the "nit" I am making for the doll. A "nit" is Emily's word for blanket. <br />
<br />
<h3>
A "nit" for Emily's "baby"</h3>
<br />
yarn: Galway worsted wool<br />
needles: US6<br />
<br />
Cast on 53 stitches.<br />
Work for six rows in seed stitch starting with a knit stitch.<br />
Then work in the pattern as follows:<br />
<br />
row !; k1, (p1, k1, p1, k9) repeat to the last 4, p1, k1, p1, k1<br />
row 2: (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p7) repeat to the last 5, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1<br />
<br />
Work until you like the length and still have some wool left.<br />
Work 6 rows of seed stitch.<br />
Cast off.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-20637319555676170022008-04-21T12:14:00.000-07:002008-04-21T12:46:54.803-07:00A Spring Green Cardi for Dru<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAzot4DAVDI/AAAAAAAABi0/IXjxuFC3fVk/s1600-h/14inSittingPrettyDru.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAzot4DAVDI/AAAAAAAABi0/IXjxuFC3fVk/s200/14inSittingPrettyDru.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191780345288086578" /></a><br />Emily loves to change the clothes of the dolls. But it is painfully obvious that there is nothing to put onto Dru. She arrived in her underwear and has stayed that way ever since.<br /><br />Material: Phildar Phil Luxe in a spring green<br />Needles: 2 1/4 mm and 2 1/2 mm (I used double pointed needles)<br />Tension: 8 stitches per inch in stocking stitch, 10 sts/inch in pattern<br />about 11 rows per inch.<br /><br />Back: Cast on 44 stitches on the 2 1/4 mm needles and work as follows:<br /> (k2, p1), repeat to the last 2 stitches, then k2<br />Work as set for 8 rows in all.<br />Change to the 2 1/2 mm needles and work as follows:<br /><br />row 1: (k2, p1, tw2, p1), repeat to the last 2 stitches and k2<br />row 2, 3, and 4: work as set, knit the knits and purl the purls<br />repeat these 4 rows for the pattern, work 14 rows in all to the armhole.<br /><br />armhole: still maintaining the pattern, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.<br />Then, decrease one stitch at each end of the next 12 rows.<br />Place the remaining 12 stitches on a spare needle<br /><br />Right Front: Cast on 21 stitches on the 2 1/4 mm needles and work as follows:<br />K1, P1, (K2, P1), repeat to the last stitch and K1<br />Work as set for 6 rows in all, then change to the 2.5 mm needles.<br /><br />Work as follows:<br />row 1: k1, p1, (tw2, p1, k2, p1) repeat to last stitch, k1<br />rows 2, 3, 4: work stitches as set<br />Repeat these four rows for the pattern, working 15 rows in all to the armhole.<br /><br />armhole: Still working in the pattern, with wrong side facing, cast off four stitches.<br />Then for the decreasing of the armhole, cast off one stitch at the armhole edge for the next twelve rows.<br />ButMolly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-3235913264305390732008-04-12T17:09:00.000-07:002008-05-10T07:57:13.119-07:00My Top Twelve (I couldn't keep it to Ten) Knitting Books<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAPRC1IhKVI/AAAAAAAABfE/-e3cvtKp5P4/s1600-h/GirlKnittingWithDollsB.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAPRC1IhKVI/AAAAAAAABfE/-e3cvtKp5P4/s200/GirlKnittingWithDollsB.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189221042213693778" /></a><br />If I could only keep 12 of my bazillion knitting books and magazines and booklets, which ones would they be? So with not a huge amount of thought (that's because one knows one's favorites) I came up with the following list. They are not in order of preference because I really like all of them, and the are quite different one from the other. Three are exclusively children's knits, one is my favorite sock book, one is my knitting instruction book, while the seven remaining are what might be considered family knitting books as they have sweaters for all ages and both women and men. Nine of the books are British, one is Scottish, and two are American. Most of them have terrific photography.<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">1. Knits for Kids, by Lena Stengard</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFTOFIhJ4I/AAAAAAAABbc/1ZDVT0qbnfE/s1600-h/4275181-m.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFTOFIhJ4I/AAAAAAAABbc/1ZDVT0qbnfE/s200/4275181-m.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188519747068700546" /></a>This book is just so much fun to look at, and ... it has great patterns. I have not been able to find a picture of the cover, but this is close. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALt51IhKII/AAAAAAAABdc/vK6YRkdBlPY/s1600-h/lg_NurseryO.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALt51IhKII/AAAAAAAABdc/vK6YRkdBlPY/s200/lg_NurseryO.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188971298455365762" /></a> The author is actually Swedish, and that does influence her designs a bit.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">2. Rowan Knitting Magazine #24</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFTlVIhJ5I/AAAAAAAABbk/tKkZTcs_KT4/s1600-h/7f74_1.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFTlVIhJ5I/AAAAAAAABbk/tKkZTcs_KT4/s200/7f74_1.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188520146500659090" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOEqlIhKLI/AAAAAAAABd0/MAurW29TxXc/s1600-h/Tulip+cardigan.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOEqlIhKLI/AAAAAAAABd0/MAurW29TxXc/s200/Tulip+cardigan.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189137062718154930" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">3. Knitting from the British Islands, by Alice Starmore</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOPHlIhKMI/AAAAAAAABd8/f7evL1pgjFc/s1600-h/5f9d92c008a0eeeeb3d1c010._AA240_.L.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOPHlIhKMI/AAAAAAAABd8/f7evL1pgjFc/s200/5f9d92c008a0eeeeb3d1c010._AA240_.L.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189148556050639042" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOPglIhKNI/AAAAAAAABeE/RTa9nH-VXRA/s1600-h/6a00d8341c673e53ef00e54f4b06b48834-640wi.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOPglIhKNI/AAAAAAAABeE/RTa9nH-VXRA/s200/6a00d8341c673e53ef00e54f4b06b48834-640wi.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189148985547368658" /></a>I have been a big fan of Alice Starmore since I learned to knit in Hong Kong in the early 80s. I bought this book in Hong Kong and the reason I have chosen this as my favorite is because there is a simplicity in this book that is not seen in her exquisite later books.<br /><br /><div><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">4. Folk Socks: The History & Techniques of handknitted Footwear, b</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">y Nancy Bus</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">h</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFVmFIhJ7I/AAAAAAAABb0/4eYwSQSIAKQ/s1600-h/k007.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFVmFIhJ7I/AAAAAAAABb0/4eYwSQSIAKQ/s200/k007.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188522358408816562" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOdslIhKPI/AAAAAAAABeU/eJT_x0_SitU/s1600-h/6a00d8345302df69e200e54f5dd1238834-800wi.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOdslIhKPI/AAAAAAAABeU/eJT_x0_SitU/s200/6a00d8345302df69e200e54f5dd1238834-800wi.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189164584868587762" /></a>This is the book I really learned to knit socks from. Because I have a tendency to lose track of where I last put my favorite books I have two copies of this one. Though I must admit, pretty soon I'll just have it memorized. Nancy is great at explaining things, and of course she's a great sock designer. All her books are good. <br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">5. Traditional Knitting: From the Scottish and Irish Isles, by Deb</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">bie Bliss</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOgN1IhKRI/AAAAAAAABek/3vfMFj14Qoo/s1600-h/934dd250fca0c34cc5054010._AA240_.L.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOgN1IhKRI/AAAAAAAABek/3vfMFj14Qoo/s200/934dd250fca0c34cc5054010._AA240_.L.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189167355122493714" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFh31IhJ9I/AAAAAAAABcE/0Au0KCjWV6I/s1600-h/traditional-knitting-by-debbie-bliss.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAFh31IhJ9I/AAAAAAAABcE/0Au0KCjWV6I/s200/traditional-knitting-by-debbie-bliss.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188535857491027922" /></a>I'm not sure why I'm so attached to this one, but maybe it's the fact that the sweaters are very traditional, and I really like that.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">6. A Treasury of Rowan Knits: 80 Patterns from Favorite Desighners, edited by Stephen Sheard</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAJNilIhJ-I/AAAAAAAABcM/g6hwz4NRKaY/s1600-h/1564774368.01._SX140_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAJNilIhJ-I/AAAAAAAABcM/g6hwz4NRKaY/s200/1564774368.01._SX140_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188794977162962914" /></a>I've been amassing Rowan patterns since book one of the magazines came out. This has a nice collection of many of those patterns.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCW3Sig4G6I/AAAAAAAABs0/8Sr5zFLFA7Y/s1600-h/PICT0004.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCW3Sig4G6I/AAAAAAAABs0/8Sr5zFLFA7Y/s200/PICT0004.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198762873999334306" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">7. The Country Diary Book of Knitting, by Annette Mitchell</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALK2lIhKBI/AAAAAAAABck/XUHNzL1lYR8/s1600-h/f1d6228348a058fe93a7e010._AA240_.L.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALK2lIhKBI/AAAAAAAABck/XUHNzL1lYR8/s200/f1d6228348a058fe93a7e010._AA240_.L.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188932759713818642" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOeylIhKQI/AAAAAAAABec/4puHf_LcMBY/s1600-h/b86c_20.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAOeylIhKQI/AAAAAAAABec/4puHf_LcMBY/s200/b86c_20.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189165787459430658" /></a>I love looking at this book. I want to be in the pictures. The designs are great and all doable.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">8. Knitting in Vogue, More Knitting in Voque, and Great Knitting in Vogue, all edited by Christina Probert</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALKc1IhKAI/AAAAAAAABcc/17EcrTw4XVw/s1600-h/More+knitting+in+Vogue+cover.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALKc1IhKAI/AAAAAAAABcc/17EcrTw4XVw/s200/More+knitting+in+Vogue+cover.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188932317332187138" /><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALsuFIhKHI/AAAAAAAABdU/7viM9sUVwtY/s1600-h/4784.gif"><br /></a><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALsuFIhKHI/AAAAAAAABdU/7viM9sUVwtY/s200/4784.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188969997080275058" /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALsSlIhKGI/AAAAAAAABdM/jvVTxwIZa08/s1600-h/probert+knitting+in+vogue.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:left;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALsSlIhKGI/AAAAAAAABdM/jvVTxwIZa08/s200/probert+knitting+in+vogue.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188969524633872482" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">9. Patons Beehive Knitting Book: The Bumper Beehive Book</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALLjlIhKCI/AAAAAAAABcs/6gF-6zxiLcc/s1600-h/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive1z.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALLjlIhKCI/AAAAAAAABcs/6gF-6zxiLcc/s200/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive1z.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188933532807931938" /></a>I read and reread this book so much that it was falling apart and I bought a wonderful holder for the pages. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALu4FIhKJI/AAAAAAAABdk/udX80whE2Ks/s1600-h/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive10z.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALu4FIhKJI/AAAAAAAABdk/udX80whE2Ks/s200/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive10z.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188972367902222482" /></a> And also, I found a copy of it for sale on the internet and I bought it. I currently don't know where I've put it, but it's safe somewhere. One of the reasons I love this book is that it is soooo 80s. I really like the knits of the 80s.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">10. Tadpoles and Tiddlers, by Rowan</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALMMlIhKDI/AAAAAAAABc0/8gH09KaQ92g/s1600-h/cover-200.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALMMlIhKDI/AAAAAAAABc0/8gH09KaQ92g/s200/cover-200.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188934237182568498" /></a>This is a really fun book, full of projects I'm keen to do.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALvn1IhKKI/AAAAAAAABds/NU2CVndHDtA/s1600-h/primrose.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALvn1IhKKI/AAAAAAAABds/NU2CVndHDtA/s200/primrose.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188973188240976034" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">11. Practical Knitting, by Rae Compton</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALpkVIhKFI/AAAAAAAABdE/jpWxBu7KmOk/s1600-h/PracticalKnitting.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SALpkVIhKFI/AAAAAAAABdE/jpWxBu7KmOk/s200/PracticalKnitting.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188966531041667154" /></a>This book is not really about patterns to knit, but it's my untimativo "how to knit" book. It's the one I learned on. I bought it in Hong Kong at the South China Morning Post bookstore at Star Ferry.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 102, 102);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;"><br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 102, 102);"><br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 102, 102);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">12. Patricia Roberts Second Knitting Bok, by Patricia Roberts</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAO1klIhKSI/AAAAAAAABes/wnmYG3IDvjk/s1600-h/f18f_1_sbl.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAO1klIhKSI/AAAAAAAABes/wnmYG3IDvjk/s200/f18f_1_sbl.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189190835708700962" /></a>I've always greatly admired Patricia Roberts as a knitwear designer, though I think in her later works she got a bit carried away with herself. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAO2eFIhKTI/AAAAAAAABe0/fm9J3f-kLMI/s1600-h/12779-large_2.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAO2eFIhKTI/AAAAAAAABe0/fm9J3f-kLMI/s200/12779-large_2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189191823551179058" /></a>The first book in 1977 was a kick, but this one is more refined without being over the top. I believe that this little sweater here is exhibited at the Victoria and Albert Museum.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-27047357858722127642008-04-09T14:43:00.000-07:002008-05-10T07:28:05.528-07:00Doesn't everyone do ten projects at a time?.<br />First, I want to say that I've got a fairly good track record of finishing projects. It's just that it often takes a long time, and they aren't always given to the original person intended. But I just can't help myself, I keep starting new projects because I get an idea. It's all about ideas.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADMx8eObMI/AAAAAAAABa0/oU6psVZQ0qM/s1600-h/barautumnleaves.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADMx8eObMI/AAAAAAAABa0/oU6psVZQ0qM/s400/barautumnleaves.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188371929149369538" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADIKseObEI/AAAAAAAABZ0/s_fJUJLMcB0/s1600-h/numerals8.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADIKseObEI/AAAAAAAABZ0/s_fJUJLMcB0/s200/numerals8.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188366856792992834" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2GvseOa6I/AAAAAAAABYk/1Mbim7b_3jA/s1600-h/PICT0071.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2GvseOa6I/AAAAAAAABYk/1Mbim7b_3jA/s200/PICT0071.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187450499750587298" /></a>So at the moment I'm working on a DK version of the Kim Hargreaves sweater that I have made twice before. The first version was in pink and was intended for Lisa Miller in Germany who was 3 years old when I started the sweater. I don't knew exactly where I bought the Rowan magazine that the pattern is in, but the price on the magazine is in Deusch marcs, and it was for Lisa in Germany. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2IVMeOa7I/AAAAAAAABYs/ZjcZRiLTPWg/s1600-h/DSC_0143.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2IVMeOa7I/AAAAAAAABYs/ZjcZRiLTPWg/s200/DSC_0143.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187452243507309490" /></a>She is now eleven. I'm not sure when I finished the sweater, nor why I never got it sent off to Germany, but I was a perfect fit for my grand-daughter Emily. Earlier this year I made a slightly heavier version of the sweater for Emily. I had to add stripes because I didn't have quite enough yarn and couldn't get any more. And now I am working on my third version of this sweater. It's a light DK red with a singly-line white stripe every seventh row. Instead of breaking off the yarn I knit the different row and then put the stitches back on the needle so that I can pick up the left behind color. I've finished the back and am almost done with the front. I had though of making it a cardigan, but it is so much easier to just plunk the sweater onto the child. I hope I can get the stripes to match up when I sew it up.<div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(102, 51, 255);">This sweater has a finished back, an almost finished front. Then I need to make the sleeves, sew it up, and knit on the neck ribbing. And of course the last thing, that I can stall on for much too long, is to sew in the ends</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 204, 204);">.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2KM8eOa8I/AAAAAAAABY0/GzsfO2vPd20/s1600-h/leaf66.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2KM8eOa8I/AAAAAAAABY0/GzsfO2vPd20/s400/leaf66.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187454300796644290" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADJTceObFI/AAAAAAAABZ8/ksDkW5Hk7hE/s1600-h/numerals8_2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADJTceObFI/AAAAAAAABZ8/ksDkW5Hk7hE/s200/numerals8_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188368106628475986" /></a>I'm also working on a cardigan for my Dad. The really tricky bit about this one is that I hope he lives to wear it. He'll be 89 on May 2nd, and it sure would be good if I had it done by then, but life seems to be flying by and I'm not what you would call loaded with energy. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2MKceOa9I/AAAAAAAABY8/pifJqyc6qp4/s1600-h/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive11z_2.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_2MKceOa9I/AAAAAAAABY8/pifJqyc6qp4/s400/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive11z_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187456456870226898" /></a>I wish the weather would get better. That like from the Chronicles of Narnia "Always winter, but never Christmas" would be something like "Always late fall, but never spring". And the cherry trees have already bloomed but it is still cold and rainy. I can't get out and walk in this kind of weather, and the dark days are even getting to me, a long time Oregonian.<br /><br />But that's enough excuses. I just need to get on with this one. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(102, 51, 255);">I've made the back and one sleeve, and I'm over half way done with the other sleeve. Then I will need to knit up the pocket linings, and then get the fronts done</span>. It's a v-neck I think. Or maybe I haven't made up my mind yet. That's one of the problems I have with getting things done - I haven't finalized what I'm really making before I start knitting.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADNJseObNI/AAAAAAAABa8/k3lBncl6I50/s1600-h/flow01.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADNJseObNI/AAAAAAAABa8/k3lBncl6I50/s400/flow01.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188372337171262674" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADK_seObII/AAAAAAAABaU/0COGwBEye80/s1600-h/numerals8_2_2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADK_seObII/AAAAAAAABaU/0COGwBEye80/s200/numerals8_2_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188369966349315202" /></a><br />I'm making a Patricia Roberts sweater for Emily. It's a really cute fine knit crew neck sweater with a lacy packet front. The main color is red with the pocket back in pink. I'm hoping to be able to embroider a pink E on the sweater. I couldn't tell you right off the back where that project is. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAPjdFIhKWI/AAAAAAAABfM/Ioz5UksLWa4/s1600-h/DSC_0134.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SAPjdFIhKWI/AAAAAAAABfM/Ioz5UksLWa4/s200/DSC_0134.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189241284394559842" /></a>But I'm fairly sure It's way more than half way finished.</div><div><br /></div><div>I've found it! It was in the basket I put things in at Christmas. I've finished all the pieces and one side of the shoulder is sewn up. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(102, 51, 255);">So now I just need to sew up the other shoulder, knit the neck ribbing, sew in the sleeves, sew up the side, sew up the pocket, and finally sew in the ends. You cannot see that the pocket lining is pink through the lacy front of the pocket. Sometimes I'm just a little too subtle.</span><br /><br />Now I just need to finish sewing in all the ends and clip the threads. This is definitely a dress sweater, as it goes only to her waist. - <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 0, 153);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">I'M DONE!</span></span></div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s1600-h/flow32.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s400/flow32.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187762666563595314" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADKmseObHI/AAAAAAAABaM/aTL9YsNZ7lE/s1600-h/numerals8_2_3.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADKmseObHI/AAAAAAAABaM/aTL9YsNZ7lE/s200/numerals8_2_3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188369536852585586" /></a>I'm working on a v-neck pullover for my not yet arrived grandson Joshua Caleb Enoch. It's of a yarn that was bought in Hong Kong about 25 years ago to make a sweater for the soon-to-be-mother of Joshua. But there I was knitting away when Emily got into my knitting and pulled out the needles and now I can't remember what size needles I was using. Now I suppose that such a small sweater won't show the problem, but it is sure irking me. I've got to figure this out.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(102, 51, 255);">I've made the back, and I was just starting in on the v-neck part of the front when I got very confused on the needles. I just need to knit it up. Then I need to make the little sleeves, sew up the parts, knit the neck ribbing, sew up the side seams, and finally sew in the ends.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s1600-h/flow32.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s400/flow32.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187762666563595314" /><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADLR8eObJI/AAAAAAAABac/edveZwBqOLM/s1600-h/numerals8_2_2_2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADLR8eObJI/AAAAAAAABac/edveZwBqOLM/s200/numerals8_2_2_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188370279881927826" /></a>I am working on a lacy patterned sweater for Emily in a hot pink wool that I bought in London at Peter Jones (or some name like that). It's a Jaeger matchmaker 4-ply, which you simply can't get in America. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB5LqHnRceI/AAAAAAAABqU/lIu6pP42ZXs/s1600-h/peterjones_12.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB5LqHnRceI/AAAAAAAABqU/lIu6pP42ZXs/s200/peterjones_12.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196674207002489314" /></a>But I only have vague recollections of this project, and I simply must find it before Emily is too big. One thing in the yarns favor is that it is pure wool, which means if I have to I can undo the project, give the yarn a good rinse, and dry it using my yarn spinning umbrella like machine to dry the yarn without wrinkles and I can start again.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(102, 51, 255);">I still can't locate this sweater!</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s1600-h/flow32.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s400/flow32.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187762666563595314" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADKDseObGI/AAAAAAAABaE/SMeoWicmz08/s1600-h/numerals8_2_4.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADKDseObGI/AAAAAAAABaE/SMeoWicmz08/s200/numerals8_2_4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188368935557164130" /></a>I'm making a lovely Aran sweater for Emily that is from an old Pinguouin knitting book #45 that I bought in Hong Kong. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6DE3nRcfI/AAAAAAAABqc/j3kMCuGWc8M/s1600-h/9602_2.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6DE3nRcfI/AAAAAAAABqc/j3kMCuGWc8M/s200/9602_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196735139703517682" /></a>I've always wanted to make that particular sweater. `The pattern calls for using Pingofrance, a yarn I do have in my stash, but I'm using Lion Brand Baby Soft, which has the same tension. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6Fj3nRcgI/AAAAAAAABqk/EZcS7w1JnUY/s1600-h/img914.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6Fj3nRcgI/AAAAAAAABqk/EZcS7w1JnUY/s200/img914.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196737871302717954" /></a>I wanted to make sure that I would have enough, and I wanted it to be in a natural wool color, like Aran sweaters. I'm using a 3 3/4 mm needle on the main body. I don't know what size needle I used on the ribbing, but I'm guessing it was a 3 1/4 mm needle.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(102, 51, 255);">At this point I'm not yet to the armhole on the back. So I've a ways to go. I really enjoy knitting on it, but it does need rather undivided attention.</span></div><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s1600-h/flow32.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R_6iqMeObDI/AAAAAAAABZs/EgGDp7F2CGg/s400/flow32.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187762666563595314" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADLn8eObKI/AAAAAAAABak/r6jmZJlPaEE/s1600-h/numerals8_2_3_2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SADLn8eObKI/AAAAAAAABak/r6jmZJlPaEE/s200/numerals8_2_3_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188370657839049890" /></a>I don't know how long ago I started in a a pair of socks for Riley in a really wild red variegated wool by Wildfoote. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6HqXnRcjI/AAAAAAAABq8/N58aX1kyqJE/s1600-h/wldft_rock_roll_100.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6HqXnRcjI/AAAAAAAABq8/N58aX1kyqJE/s200/wldft_rock_roll_100.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196740181995123250" /></a> He was the one who picked out the wool, but I really liked it myself. Once I was working on the socks in my French class and my teacher - who is VERY French - looked very apprehensively at the socks. I told her that they were for my husband and that he had chosen the wool. At that she seemed to give a look that said "well I guess it's okay then."<br /><br />The tension on these socks is 9 or 10 stitches to the inch. I had originally been putting in a cable down the sides every ten rows, but with the variegation and all it was hard to see, so I stopped putting in the cable.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6Gj3nRchI/AAAAAAAABqs/fOkYVuQqd24/s1600-h/flow05.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6Gj3nRchI/AAAAAAAABqs/fOkYVuQqd24/s320/flow05.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196738970814345746" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6KHnnRckI/AAAAAAAABrE/PVStCACB6FQ/s1600-h/numerals8_2_2_2_2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB6KHnnRckI/AAAAAAAABrE/PVStCACB6FQ/s320/numerals8_2_2_2_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196742883529552450" /></a>This is a project that I've got in mind and that I have the book and the yarn for the project. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB8d1HnRclI/AAAAAAAABrM/hXLyHExni2Y/s1600-h/outtoplay.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB8d1HnRclI/AAAAAAAABrM/hXLyHExni2Y/s200/outtoplay.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196905293422883410" /></a>Last year, when Riley and I were getting ready for our trip back east, I went into the knitting store and asked if they had a for pay project that I could do while on the trip. The clerk (Sandi) hesitated, but then she swung into action. It turns out that the store had a trunk show in the store and someone had stolen a pair of socks that were on display. The show was leaving soon and they needed to replace the socks. She showed me the socks as pictured in knitting book. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB8e13nRcmI/AAAAAAAABrU/nYNH9EQkNeg/s1600-h/rainyday.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SB8e13nRcmI/AAAAAAAABrU/nYNH9EQkNeg/s200/rainyday.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196906405819413090" /></a>They seemed very doable, looking like a guernsey pattern. So she gave me the two balls of wool needed and I was off. I later discovered that the pattern was actually formed by knitting twisted stitches, which is definitely more difficult than knit/purl patterning. But I did them and eventually earned enough store credit to buy the yarn for this coat for Emily.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWrDyg4G4I/AAAAAAAABsk/JAI9931k0Dg/s1600-h/flow13.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWrDyg4G4I/AAAAAAAABsk/JAI9931k0Dg/s320/flow13.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198749426456730498" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWhHSg4G2I/AAAAAAAABsU/k1lNH-zgPS8/s1600-h/numerals8_2_2_2_2_2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWhHSg4G2I/AAAAAAAABsU/k1lNH-zgPS8/s200/numerals8_2_2_2_2_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198738491469994850" /></a>I was sorting through what looked like a basket of projects and among the found projects was what looked like a sweater for a doll or teddy. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWqcCg4G3I/AAAAAAAABsc/SPM7hzEN4zM/s1600-h/DSC_0003.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWqcCg4G3I/AAAAAAAABsc/SPM7hzEN4zM/s200/DSC_0003.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198748743556930418" /></a>I carefully disentangled the little pieces and discovered a back, two sleeves, a front, and an almost finished other front. So obviously what I had was a cardigan. The yarn used for this project is a 20 gram ball of Sirdar Wash 'n' Wear 4 ply that I bought in Hong Kong 25 years ago. I looked it up on the internet and they now make it in a 100 gram ball. What a difference. And upon closer inspection it looked like a cardigan for an American Girl doll. With all the pieces about ready for assembly I decided I would get right on it. The unfinished front was already starting the armhole decrease, but not yet to the neck decreases. The sweater was a raglan sleeve cardigan, so I estimated that I must be decreasing one stitch at the armhole every front row. I decided to just wing it on the neck edge, and trust that all would work out. Then I sewed the pieces together, using my French safety pins to hold the stitches of fronts and sleeves, and the back was on a needle. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWrlCg4G5I/AAAAAAAABss/V06Nc0L9Z20/s1600-h/DSC_0014.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/SCWrlCg4G5I/AAAAAAAABss/V06Nc0L9Z20/s200/DSC_0014.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198749997687380882" /></a>At this point I could slip the sleeve onto my Emily doll. It looked like a perfect fit. Next I needed the bands, button band first. I decided on a six stitch band, worked as follows: {k1,p1,k1,p1,k2] & [k1,p1,k1,p1,k1,p1]. When sewed on it seemed to be about 51 rows, and I decided on 5 buttonholes. The buttonhole band was as follows: [p1,k1,p1,k1,p1,k1} & [k2,p1,k1,p1,k1] On the 4th and every following 12th row I made a buttonhole as follows: [k2, yf, k2tog, p1,k1] and the following row I knit the loop. I'm noting this here because the buttonholes are perfect. I'm always forgetting exactly how I want to do them.<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(102, 102, 204);">Now all that is left to do is to find the buttons and sew them on. That's why you can see the thread hanging down, it's the last remaining thread on the sweater and is meant to sew on the buttons with. Somewhere I have a tin of very small buttons!</span>Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-75628918269127999062008-02-26T23:18:00.000-08:002008-04-14T16:09:22.769-07:00A Silly Hat for Emily<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R8W-VqJtOOI/AAAAAAAABKE/WDXWyRA6SdU/s320/DSC_0071_2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5171749026406414562" />This remnant appeared from nowhere, most likely found by Emily. And for many days it sat in my line of vision saying "make something out of me." Now this is cheap yarn in an interesting varigated pattern, probably something like Jiffy by Lion brand. I don't know what it was originally, maybe socks for someone, maybe mittens. I really don't know. So I decided to make a playful hat for Emily out of it. <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R8USpaJtOKI/AAAAAAAABJk/Xbvd3lHBNc4/s200/450-330a.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5171560249708853410" /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Material: a remnant of unknown amount, maybe the size of a tennis bal<br /></div><div>l. It was Jiffy and weighed 37 grams, which would be about 58 yards.</div><div>Needles: 5.5 mm</div><div> double pointed, set of five.</div><div>Tension: 7 stitches to the 5 cm.</div><div><br /></div><div>Cast on 64 stitches (16 per needle)</div><div>Work a row in stoc</div><div>king stitch</div><div>Work 2 rows in 1/1 ribbing</div><div>Work about 11 rows in stocking stitch</div><div>Work 1 row in purl</div><div>Work 1 row in knit</div><div>Begin the mitered decrease:</div><div>round 1: on each needle - ssk, knit to the last 2, k2tog</div><div>round 2: knit</div><div>Repeat these two rounds until there are 4 stitches on each needle.</div><div>work round 1</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R8W_TqJtOPI/AAAAAAAABKM/C-LTWE9cgmo/s200/DSC_0061.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5171750091558303986" /><div>Break off the yarn to about a 12 inch length of yarn and thread through the remaining 8 stitches.</div><div><br /></div><div>Make a tassel that's about 2 1/2 inches long.</div><div>I simply used up the remaining yarn.</div><div>Using the length of yarn on the hat, attach the tassle</div>Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-58991517187766805502008-02-17T09:36:00.000-08:002008-05-10T14:24:44.157-07:00Emily's Cabled Pink Cardi<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R7ivurVfB7I/AAAAAAAABFI/0xUSyAtZeL8/s1600-h/p180.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R7ivurVfB7I/AAAAAAAABFI/0xUSyAtZeL8/s200/p180.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168073788849326002" /></a><br />This sweater is from a Patons booklet that I bought in Hong Kong in the early 80s. It's number is 80, and the title is Baby Scene: Knitting and Crochet for Tinies and Toddlers. I finally made it for Emily, after having started it much earlier for I have no idea who. A girl, obviously. But I had a picture of Emily in it on my blog and someone asked where it came from. I'm pretty sure it would be hard to find anywhere, except maybe on e-bay. Actually I just found it for sale on <a href="http://crochet4you1.tripod.com/patons_180.htm">a site</a> They are asking $12. I paid HK$7.50. I think the book can be had for a price. But anyway, here's the cardigan directions:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R7jS-bVfB9I/AAAAAAAABFY/-3RW7vtV6XY/s1600-h/PICT0093.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R7jS-bVfB9I/AAAAAAAABFY/-3RW7vtV6XY/s200/PICT0093.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168112542339237842" /></a>Sizes to fit chest 18 inches, 20 inches, 22 inches<br />Length of cardigan 9 1/2 inches 10 1/2 inches 11 1/2 inches<br />Sleeve length 5 inches 6 inches 8 inches<br />Material: the pattern calls for Patons Fairytale 4ply (Courtelle/Bri-Nylon)<br /><br /><br />button-up(cardigan 20 gram balls 4 ball 4 ball4 5 balls<br />Needles: a set of both 2 3/4 mms (12UK, 2US) and 3 1/4 (10UK, 3US)<br />Buttons: 6 for the button-up<br />Tension: 14 stitches and 18 rows for a 2 inch square swatch<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R7j4brVfB-I/AAAAAAAABFg/bBkhbPMe9ZY/s1600-h/p180b.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R7j4brVfB-I/AAAAAAAABFg/bBkhbPMe9ZY/s200/p180b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5168153726780639202" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 51, 51);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 0, 153);">note 1: I used Patons Beehive 4ply. They both have the same yardage - 240 yds/50 grams. Dale Baby Ull has 189 yards, that's because it's all washable wool. I do not like using cotton, which has no give despite all the stretching out it does, and I don't like all acrylic (or should I say, all synthetic) which looks pretty bad after a few wearings. What ever you use you, or someone, will be happier if it is machine washable.</span><br /></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 0, 153);">note 2: I always change some things in a pattern.<br /></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 102, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">BACK</span></span></span></span><br /><br />With the 2 3/4 mm needles cast on 63 (71, 77) stitches.<br />Work in 1/1 ribbing for 10 (12,14) rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end on the last row.<br /><br />The increase row looks like this: p1, k1, M1, work to the last 2, M1, k1, p1 (65, 73, 79) stitches on the needle.<br /><br />Change to the 3 1/4 mm needles. Work in stocking stitch until the work measures 5 (5 1/2, 6) inches, with the right side facing for the next row.<br /><br />shape the raglans as follows:<br />Cast of 3 (4, 4) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. (59, 63, 69)<br />row 3: k1, ssk, work to the last 3, k2tog, k1<br />row 4: purl<br />Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 21 (23, 25) stitches on the needle.<br />Work one more row with out decreasing.<br />If you are making the v-neck cast off firmly, otherwise place stitches on a spare needle.<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 102, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">RIGHT FRONT </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">this is the side where the center is on the right side of the needle as the front is facing you.</span></span><br /><br />With the 2 3/4 mm needles cast on 31 (35, 39) stitches.<br />Work 10 (12, 14) rows in 1/1 ribbing, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last ribbing row.<br />Increase on stitch on the outside edge of the first and second sizes. (32, 36, 39)<br /><br />Change to 3 1/4 mm needles and work in pattern as follows:<br /><br />row 1: k1, *(p2, Tw2F, Tw2B, Pe, k1)* 3 times, knit to the end.<br />row 2: P4 (8, 11) (k3, p4, k2) 3 times, p1<br />row 3: k1, (p2, k4, p2, k1) 3 times, knit to the end<br />row 4: as row 2<br />row 5: k1, (p2, Tw2B, Tw2F, p2, k1) 3 times, knit to the end.<br />row 6: as row 2<br /><br />These 6 rows for the pattern. Continue until the Front matches the Back at the armhole at the side edge with the wrong side facing.<br /><br />Keeping with the pattern shape the raglan as for the back.<br />Work until you have 16 (17, 19) stitches on the needle with the right side facing.<br /><br />Shape neck:<br /><br />While still decreasing at the raglan side as before, knit the first 4 (5, 5) stitches and place them on a spare length of wool. The working on the remaining stitches decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 4 (4, 5) rows. Then continue, decreasing only at the raglan edge until only three stitches remain.<br />Work one row.<br />Next row, k2tog, k1<br />Then next row p2, turn and k2tog and place the single stitch on to the needle with the back to save it.<br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">LEFT FRONT </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> this is the side in which the armhole is on the right front side of the needle.</span></span><br /><br />Work in correspondence with the RIGHT FRONT, reversing the shapings and noting that the ssk worked in place of k2tog at the raglan shaping and the 6 rows of the patterns are worked as follows:<br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(153, 255, 153);">TO BE CONTINUED</span><br /></div>Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-88317218749554478212008-02-03T22:29:00.000-08:002008-05-04T21:14:46.475-07:00Socks with Clocks for Emily.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R6a8vZt364I/AAAAAAAAA14/xFgj0KFLwF8/s1600-h/doreen93pic307.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R6a8vZt364I/AAAAAAAAA14/xFgj0KFLwF8/s200/doreen93pic307.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5163021545370020738" /></a><br />I just picked up a remnant of a skein and some needles and started in. I got the pattern idea from a vintage pattern for socks knit on two needles. I have changed it into a sock knit on 4 needles, which I think is much easier.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">wool:</span></span></span></span> less than 50 grams of Dale Baby Ull<br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">needles</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">:</span></span></span> set of 5 2 1/4 mm double pointed needles (US#1)<br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">tension:</span></span></span></span> 8 sts to 10 cm, 11 rows to 10 cm<br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">size:</span></span></span></span> to fit a one year old foot, size 4 or 5 shoe. The sock is about 5 inches long in the foot, and 4.5 inches around.<br /><br />Cast on 40 stitches (14,12,14) and work for 12 rows in 1/1 ribbing.<br />Start the clock pattern:<br />round 1: knit 7, purl 1, knit 4, purl 1, knit 14, purl 1, knit 4, purl 1, knit 7<br />round 2: as round 1<br />round 3: k1, p1, Cable 4 to the back, p1, k14, p1, C4B, p1, k7<br />round 4: as round 1<br />Repeat these 1 rounds 7 more times, 8 cable twists in all.<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Heel:</span></span> knit 10 on first needle, knit 10 onto second needle, knit 10 onto third needle, knit 10 onto forth needle.<br />Using the forth needle with its 10 stitches knit the 10 stitches on the first needle. So now you have the heel on one needle and the instep on two needle, and one working needle. Set the fifth one aside. Work back and forth on the heel stitches, always slipping the first stitch, until there are 13 rows, stopping in the middle of the needle.<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Turn the heel:</span></span><br />row 1: k2, ssk, k1, turn<br />row 2: s1pw, p5, p2tog, p1, turn<br />row 3: s1kw, knit up to the stitch just before the gap, ssk, k1, turn<br />row 4: s1pw, purl to the stitch just before the gap, p2tog, 1, turn<br />row 5: as row 3<br />row 6: as row 4<br />row 7: s1kw, knit up to the stich just before the gap, ssk, turn<br />row 8: s1pw, purl to the stitch just before the gap, p2tog, turn<br />row 9: s1kw, knit to the middle<br /><br />Place the instep stitches on just one needle.<div><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Pick up for the gusset:</span></span><br />One the first needle knit 6, then pick up and knit 7 stitches up the heel flap. Once this is successfully done, then put the first 6 onto the second needle. Knit across the instep. Then on the third needle pick up 7 stitches on the heel flap and then knit the last six stitches. (46 stitches in all)<br />Next row, knit around.</div><br />row 1: on the first needle knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1, knit 20 on the second needle, then on the third needle knit 1, ssk, knit to the end.<br />row 2: knit<br />row 3: as row 1<br />row 4: knit<br />row 5: as row 1<br /><br />Rearrange the stitches so that they are more even on the needles and work in knit stitch for .....<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Tow:</span></span> first arrange the stitches so that there are 10 on the first needle, 20 on the second needle, and 10 on the third.<div><br />row 1: on the first needle knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1; on the second needle k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1; then on the third needle k1, ssk, knit to the end. (36)<br />row 2: knit<br />row 3: as row 1 (32)<br />row 4: knit<br />row 5: as row 1 (28)<br />row 6: knit<br />row 7: as row 1 (24)<br />row 8: knit<br />row 9: as row 1 (20)<br />row 10: as row 1 (16)<br />row 11: as row 1 (12)<br />row 12: k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk (8)</div><div><br /></div><div>Break off the wool, put end on a darning needle and thread through the stitches left on the needles, and then through a few more and insert into the inside of the sock and weave through several stitches and break off. <br /><br /></div><div>Make a second sock to match.</div>Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-49885762711580517662008-01-26T06:45:00.000-08:002012-10-04T01:04:34.695-07:00A Dolly Sweater and Hat for Emily's Emily<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5tev5t36HI/AAAAAAAAAvw/ARm6KESuJ4w/s1600-h/100506896_tp.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159821975123126386" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5tev5t36HI/AAAAAAAAAvw/ARm6KESuJ4w/s200/100506896_tp.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
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Emily and I received the American Girl doll Emily for Christmas. She's mostly mine because Emily would destroy it if left to play with it for long. But it is the one American Girl doll that I let her play with from time to time. I had decided to make an outfit for Emily's Bitty Baby - a rolled brimmed hat and a sweater just like Emily's pink sweater that I had made 7 years ago for Lisa Miler,who is now 11 years old and lives in Germany. And I did make that outfit just as planned, but I put it on Emily the doll and I really liked it on her, so hers it shall be.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5toPJt36II/AAAAAAAAAv4/ckRBIGjWMQo/s1600-h/DSC_0131.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159832407598688386" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5toPJt36II/AAAAAAAAAv4/ckRBIGjWMQo/s200/DSC_0131.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" /></a>I intend to give the directions but I cannot guarantee complete accuracy. I tend to knit and then think later. Unfortunately I can sometimes talk in the same fashion. That's one of the nice things about editing on a blog. You can look at it later when you are in the thinking mode and change what you said.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Material</span></span>: 1 ball of Encore</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Needles:</span></span> for the hat - set of 4mm DP needles</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">for the sweater</span> - 5mm SP needles</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Tension: </span></span>for the hat - 5.5 sts per inch</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">for the sweater</span> - 4.5 sts per inch</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6666cc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Hat</span></span></span></span></div>
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I wanted the tension on the hat to be tight so that the hat would be sturdy and not flippy-floppy. This way the hat stays on better and goes on more easily.</div>
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On the double pointed needles, cast on 60 sts.</div>
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Work in stocking stitch for 20 rows.</div>
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Now start the crown decreasing.</div>
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round 1: *k8, k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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round 4: *k7, k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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rounds 5 & 6: knit</div>
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round 7: *k6, k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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round 8: knit</div>
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round 9: *k5, k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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round 10: knit</div>
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round 11: "k4, k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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round 12: knit</div>
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round 13: *k3, k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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round 14: *k2, k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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round 15: *k1, k2tog* repeat to the end</div>
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round 16: *k2tog* repeat to the end.</div>
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You now have six stitches. Work three rows like Icord.</div>
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To do that you kit across all the stitches onto just one needle.</div>
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Then you start again at the front of the needle, bringing the yarn around the back, and knit again. Repeats once more. Then break off the yarn and thread it through the stitches and poke the yarn through the top into the inside of the hat and slip the excess yarn through a bunch of stitch loops to secure it, being sure to tug gently on the yarn to make sure that the little beany nob looks good.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #6666cc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Sweater</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #9999ff;">Bac</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #9999ff;">k</span></div>
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Cast on 37 stitches on 5 mm needles. Work 12 rows in 3/3 ribbing (k3,p3) for 12 rows, starting with k2, p3. Then work 6 rows in stocking stitch. Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Then on the third row: k1, ssk, knit to the last three, k2tog, k1. You now have 29 stitches. Now work in stocking stitch until there are 22 rows of stocking stitch from the ribbing. Cast off 6 stitches, work to the last 6 stitches and cast them off. You have 17 stitches on needle. Put on a holder.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #9999ff;">Pockets</span></span></div>
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Cast on 6 stitches. work 6 rows in stocking stitch. Put on a spare needle. Make another pocket the same. These will be needed when you finish the ribbing on the front.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #9999ff;">Front</span></span></div>
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Cast on 37 stitches on work 5 rows in 3/3 ribbing, as for back. </div>
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On the next row rib 8, cast off 6 in ribbing, rib 9, cast off 6 in ribbing, rib 8. Then work 8 stitches in stocking stitch, knit 6 stitches from one of the pockets, knit 9 stitches, knit 6 stitches from the other pocket, and the last 8 stitches. Work 5 more rows of stocking stitch.</div>
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Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Then on the third row k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1. You now have 29 stitches. Work 7 more rows of stocking stitch.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #d5a6bd;">Make the front neck opening:</span> </div>
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row 1: Knit 9 stitches. Turn, leaving rest of stitches on needle. </div>
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row 2: P2tog, purl to end. (8)</div>
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row 3: k6, k2tog. (7)</div>
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row 4: P2tog, purl to end. (6)</div>
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row 5: knit.</div>
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row 6: purl.</div>
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Cast off remaining 6 stitches. Break off yarn.</div>
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Transfer the remaining unworked stitches onto the other needle.</div>
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row 1: With a new piece of yarn, purl 9. Turn.</div>
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row 2: SSK, knit to the end. (8)</div>
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row 3: Purl to the last 2, p2togtbl. (7)</div>
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row 4: SSK, knit to the end. (6)</div>
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row 5: purl</div>
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row 6: knit.</div>
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Cast off remaining 6 stitches.</div>
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What you have now are 11 center stitches on the needle. Put on holder.</div>
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<i style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #3d85c6;">Sleeves</span></i></div>
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Cast on 19 stitches on 5mm needles and work 6 rows in 3/3 ribbing, starting with k2, ending with k2.</div>
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Change to stocking stitch. Increase one stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until you have 29 stitches. For the increase: k2, m1, knit to last 2 stitches, m1, k2. Knit 1 more row. Cast off.</div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0b5394;">Assembly: </span></i></div>
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Sew the shoulders together. </div>
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Using a set of 5 mm double pointed needles, pick up 17 across the back, 6 down the front, 11 across the front center, 6 up the front. You have 40 stitches. Work in 2/2 ribbing for 3 rows. Work in stocking stitch for 3 rows. Cast off.</div>
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Sew on the sleeves, and sew up the sides. Then stitch down the pockets.</div>
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If anyone sees and error in this, please tell me.</div>
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I made a second sweater without the pockets and the ribbing only 6 rows, the adding 6 plain rows. The first version is cuter. As with most knit items the variations can go on and on.</div>
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Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-66069208549631193212008-01-22T22:15:00.000-08:002012-12-10T08:18:55.371-08:00Annie’s knee-highs<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5bdt5t36DI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/H_Oce4vfRKQ/s1600-h/PICT0024.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158554203856562226" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5bdt5t36DI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/H_Oce4vfRKQ/s200/PICT0024.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
Materials:<br />
1 ball of Red Heart Soft Yarn, or a worsted weight of choice. <br />
1 set of size 4mm (6US) double-pointed needles<br />
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Tension: 20 sts to 10 cm, 28 rows to 10 cm<br />
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<b>Cuff:</b><br />
Cast on 54 stitches and work in 1/1 ribbing (or ribbing of choice) for about 1 1/2 inches.</div>
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There are lots of options for ribbings. Do whatever you like.<br />
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<b>The leg:</b><br />
Working in stocking stitch, decrease 1 stitch each end of the row on every 10th row until you have 44 stitches.<br />
For the decrease: on first needle k1, k2tog, knit to end.<br />
Then on the third needle, knit to the last three, ssk, k1.<br />
Work 20 more rows after you are down to 44 stitches.<br />
Annie is a short person with sturdy legs, so for a tall thin person you can decrease a bit more and knit a bit farther. Just remember to allow for the changes.<br />
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<b>The Heel:</b><br />
Knit 11 stitches on first needle. Place the remainder on the next needle.<br />
Knit 11 stitches on second needle.<br />
Knit 11 stitches onto the third needle.<br />
Place the remaining stitches onto the back end of the first needle.<br />
Now work back and forth on the first needle as follows.<br />
1st row (rsf) slip1, knit across<br />
2nd row (wsf) (slip1pw, p1) repeat to the end.<br />
Work 20 rows of this all together, then with (rsf) slip1 kw, knit 10.<br />
(I don’t really know exactly how many rows I knit, but 20 seems logical)<br />
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<b>Turn the Heel:</b><br />
row 1: k1, k2tog, k1, turn<br />
row 2: s1pw, p3, p2togtbl, p1, turn<br />
row 3: s1kw, knit to the stitch before the gap, k2tog, k1, turn<br />
row 4: s1pw, purl to the stitch before the gap, p2togtbl, p1, turn<br />
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until it’s all worked up, ending with the purl row.<br />
Last row: s1kw, knit to the middle.<br />
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You now have 12 stitches at the end of the heel.<br />
Place the instep stitches (the ones you haven’t been knitting on) onto one needle.<br />
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<b>The Gussets:</b> This whole thing looks tricky, but is not really hard.<br />
Using the newly freed up needle, knit 6 stitches.<br />
Then with a free needle pick up and knit 10 or 11 stitches along the heel flap, the last one being a M1 using the strand just before the instep stitches.<br />
Place the first 6 stitches that you knit onto the end of the picking up needle, having the last stitch be a M1 and not just a knit into a loop. This helps keep things tight.<br />
note: the reason I do the picking up on a free needle is incase I don’t get the right number of stitches at first.<br />
Then knit across the instep.<br />
Then, M1 (you’ll need a spare needle to help you do this, picking up the loop and knitting into the back of it.)<br />
And pick up 10 more stitches. On same needle, knit the last six stitches.<br />
Now that everything is all assembled -<br />
Row 1: knit a round.<br />
Row 2: (decrease round)<br />
needle 1: knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1<br />
needle 2: knit<br />
needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to the end<br />
Work these two rows until you have 40 stitches.<br />
(Again, I didn’t remember exactly. What matters is having a number of stitches divisible by four that will fit the foot.)<br />
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<b>The Foot:</b><br />
Knit in stocking stitch until the sock is 51 rows from the start of the turning of the heel.<br />
This number of rows is dependent on 2 factors - how long the given foot is, and how many stitches you have on the needle. <br />
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If the foot is x inches long you will need 7x rows.<br />
(7 being the number of rows per inch that you are knitting).<br />
Then you need to subtract how many rows you will knit for the toe. <br />
This number will be number of stitches on needles minus 8 (40 - 8 = 32),<br />
then divided by four (32/4 = 8) plus half that number (8 + 8/2 = 12).<br />
So you will need to stop for the toe at total number of rows needed for foot minus 12. <br />
Annie's foot is 9 inches long, that means I needed 63 rows in all, with 12 needed for the toe,<br />
so I stopped at 63 - 12, which equals 51.<br />
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<b>The Toe:</b><br />
Arrange the stitches so that you have 10/20/10 stitches on the needles.<br />
1st row:<br />
needle 1: knit to the last three stitches, k2tog, k1<br />
needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to the last three, k2tog, k1<br />
needle 3: k1 ssk, knit to the end.<br />
2nd row: knit a round<br />
Work these two rows until you have 20 stitches.<br />
Then, work only the decrease round until you have 8 stitches.<br />
Break off the yarn and thread it securely through the 8 stitches.<br />
Put the end on the inside and weave it is.<br />
Weave in the cast on tail.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5beapt36EI/AAAAAAAAAvY/4iNfbe5hJxg/s1600-h/PICT0006.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158554972655708226" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5beapt36EI/AAAAAAAAAvY/4iNfbe5hJxg/s200/PICT0006.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px;" /></a>Now make a second sock to match. (This is the really tricky part)</div>
Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5927452553186672973.post-54598461229519554492008-01-22T10:42:00.000-08:002008-02-09T23:46:06.586-08:00Introduction to Molly's Knits<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5Y_7jLHKbI/AAAAAAAAAt0/9dunqzc1ANE/s1600-h/knittinggirlsmall_2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5Y_7jLHKbI/AAAAAAAAAt0/9dunqzc1ANE/s200/knittinggirlsmall_2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158380715486161330" /></a>I began learning how to knit when I was in grade school, but it was a long time before I actually produced a finished product. I'm not sure, but I think that the first item was a baby planked for my oldest daughter. And after that I made a couple of simple sweaters for her. However, I didn't really get started knitting until we were living in Hong Kong. At church I saw so many beautiful sweaters on the children in the creche (that's British for nursery) that I wanted to know where they came from. I soon realized that most of the sweaters were made for the children by their grandmothers back in England. And soon after that realization I discovered a terrific yarn shop on Li Yeun street in Central. Then I found some great British knitting books in the South China Morning Post shop down by Star Ferry. I then began my long journey of learning how to really knit. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5Z7NzLHKeI/AAAAAAAAAug/iW1D7rXHZL4/s1600-h/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive1z.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5Z7NzLHKeI/AAAAAAAAAug/iW1D7rXHZL4/s200/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive1z.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158445900204812770" /></a>I began with little projects, like a simple baby vest, then a sock. It was quite a while before I could manage to make two matching socks. But my first truly major project was a school sweater for my oldest daughter. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5Z7ijLHKfI/AAAAAAAAAuo/WnyrffJG_nk/s1600-h/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive10z.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5Z7ijLHKfI/AAAAAAAAAuo/WnyrffJG_nk/s200/lg_StitchcraftBumperBeehive10z.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158446256687098354" /></a><br />She was attending a British school and needed a grey uniform cardigan. By then I had bought what was to become one of my most favourite knitting books and of course I selected a pattern from that book. It was to be in grey of course. I had chosen a 100% DK wool by Patons called Clansman and by the time I had finished the back I realized that I did not have enough wool. Three days after I had purchased the wool at Mui Tong, where the wool had just come in that day, they were all out of my dye lot. So I just got two more balls and decided that I would use the different dye lot on the main body of the fronts (not the plackets or ribbing) and that I would make it patterned somehow. This way I figured no one would notice the difference. And that was the case. I was very proud of the sweater and Heidi wore it for two years to school.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5adS5t35_I/AAAAAAAAAuw/hRHYluD9ozE/s1600-h/4f14_1_sbl.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5adS5t35_I/AAAAAAAAAuw/hRHYluD9ozE/s200/4f14_1_sbl.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158483371255916530" /></a>By this time I was beginning to collect British and French and German knitting books. The British ones were the most often used, but I loved the French designs. I made Corey a red Aran sweater from a French book. Corey could never understand why I made her a sweater with holes in it. The holes were caused by the blackberry pattern (or the trinity pattern as the Irish would call it). I also made for Corey a terrific button through cardigan in red with two cables up the front. She loved that one.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5bYwJt36BI/AAAAAAAAAvA/FgiMnfJ4fwg/s1600-h/DSC_0004_2.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5bYwJt36BI/AAAAAAAAAvA/FgiMnfJ4fwg/s200/DSC_0004_2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158548744953128978" /></a>Over the years I've gotten to where I can knit without a pattern. Not everything, mind you, but quite a lot of things. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5bZwZt36CI/AAAAAAAAAvI/l4Zdox_ClbA/s1600-h/DSC_0006.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zX7Qju9tY3A/R5bZwZt36CI/AAAAAAAAAvI/l4Zdox_ClbA/s200/DSC_0006.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158549848759724066" /></a>But the problem is getting what I've done recorded. So what I want to do is try and record the directions for the things that I make up on my own. Also I need to record the patterns that are take-offs from other designs. One thing that I find so frustrating about blogs on knitting is that they only show you what they did, and say nothing about how they did it. Could you imagine if cooking sites only showed pictures of the food they made. Now I realize that it can be much harder to give accurate knitting instructions than it is to give accurate cooking instructions, but they're not so far apart in difficulty.Molly Loves Parishttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07933947603420338466noreply@blogger.com0