Materials:
1 ball of Red Heart Soft Yarn, or a worsted weight of choice.
1 set of size 4mm (6US) double-pointed needles
Tension: 20 sts to 10 cm, 28 rows to 10 cm
Cuff:
Cast on 54 stitches and work in 1/1 ribbing (or ribbing of choice) for about 1 1/2 inches.
Cast on 54 stitches and work in 1/1 ribbing (or ribbing of choice) for about 1 1/2 inches.
There are lots of options for ribbings. Do whatever you like.
The leg:
Working in stocking stitch, decrease 1 stitch each end of the row on every 10th row until you have 44 stitches.
For the decrease: on first needle k1, k2tog, knit to end.
Then on the third needle, knit to the last three, ssk, k1.
Work 20 more rows after you are down to 44 stitches.
Annie is a short person with sturdy legs, so for a tall thin person you can decrease a bit more and knit a bit farther. Just remember to allow for the changes.
The Heel:
Knit 11 stitches on first needle. Place the remainder on the next needle.
Knit 11 stitches on second needle.
Knit 11 stitches onto the third needle.
Place the remaining stitches onto the back end of the first needle.
Now work back and forth on the first needle as follows.
1st row (rsf) slip1, knit across
2nd row (wsf) (slip1pw, p1) repeat to the end.
Work 20 rows of this all together, then with (rsf) slip1 kw, knit 10.
(I don’t really know exactly how many rows I knit, but 20 seems logical)
Turn the Heel:
row 1: k1, k2tog, k1, turn
row 2: s1pw, p3, p2togtbl, p1, turn
row 3: s1kw, knit to the stitch before the gap, k2tog, k1, turn
row 4: s1pw, purl to the stitch before the gap, p2togtbl, p1, turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until it’s all worked up, ending with the purl row.
Last row: s1kw, knit to the middle.
You now have 12 stitches at the end of the heel.
Place the instep stitches (the ones you haven’t been knitting on) onto one needle.
The Gussets: This whole thing looks tricky, but is not really hard.
Using the newly freed up needle, knit 6 stitches.
Then with a free needle pick up and knit 10 or 11 stitches along the heel flap, the last one being a M1 using the strand just before the instep stitches.
Place the first 6 stitches that you knit onto the end of the picking up needle, having the last stitch be a M1 and not just a knit into a loop. This helps keep things tight.
note: the reason I do the picking up on a free needle is incase I don’t get the right number of stitches at first.
Then knit across the instep.
Then, M1 (you’ll need a spare needle to help you do this, picking up the loop and knitting into the back of it.)
And pick up 10 more stitches. On same needle, knit the last six stitches.
Now that everything is all assembled -
Row 1: knit a round.
Row 2: (decrease round)
needle 1: knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
needle 2: knit
needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to the end
Work these two rows until you have 40 stitches.
(Again, I didn’t remember exactly. What matters is having a number of stitches divisible by four that will fit the foot.)
The Foot:
Knit in stocking stitch until the sock is 51 rows from the start of the turning of the heel.
This number of rows is dependent on 2 factors - how long the given foot is, and how many stitches you have on the needle.
If the foot is x inches long you will need 7x rows.
(7 being the number of rows per inch that you are knitting).
Then you need to subtract how many rows you will knit for the toe.
This number will be number of stitches on needles minus 8 (40 - 8 = 32),
then divided by four (32/4 = 8) plus half that number (8 + 8/2 = 12).
So you will need to stop for the toe at total number of rows needed for foot minus 12.
Annie's foot is 9 inches long, that means I needed 63 rows in all, with 12 needed for the toe,
so I stopped at 63 - 12, which equals 51.
The Toe:
Arrange the stitches so that you have 10/20/10 stitches on the needles.
1st row:
needle 1: knit to the last three stitches, k2tog, k1
needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to the last three, k2tog, k1
needle 3: k1 ssk, knit to the end.
2nd row: knit a round
Work these two rows until you have 20 stitches.
Then, work only the decrease round until you have 8 stitches.
Break off the yarn and thread it securely through the 8 stitches.
Put the end on the inside and weave it is.
Weave in the cast on tail.
Now make a second sock to match. (This is the really tricky part)
The leg:
Working in stocking stitch, decrease 1 stitch each end of the row on every 10th row until you have 44 stitches.
For the decrease: on first needle k1, k2tog, knit to end.
Then on the third needle, knit to the last three, ssk, k1.
Work 20 more rows after you are down to 44 stitches.
Annie is a short person with sturdy legs, so for a tall thin person you can decrease a bit more and knit a bit farther. Just remember to allow for the changes.
The Heel:
Knit 11 stitches on first needle. Place the remainder on the next needle.
Knit 11 stitches on second needle.
Knit 11 stitches onto the third needle.
Place the remaining stitches onto the back end of the first needle.
Now work back and forth on the first needle as follows.
1st row (rsf) slip1, knit across
2nd row (wsf) (slip1pw, p1) repeat to the end.
Work 20 rows of this all together, then with (rsf) slip1 kw, knit 10.
(I don’t really know exactly how many rows I knit, but 20 seems logical)
Turn the Heel:
row 1: k1, k2tog, k1, turn
row 2: s1pw, p3, p2togtbl, p1, turn
row 3: s1kw, knit to the stitch before the gap, k2tog, k1, turn
row 4: s1pw, purl to the stitch before the gap, p2togtbl, p1, turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until it’s all worked up, ending with the purl row.
Last row: s1kw, knit to the middle.
You now have 12 stitches at the end of the heel.
Place the instep stitches (the ones you haven’t been knitting on) onto one needle.
The Gussets: This whole thing looks tricky, but is not really hard.
Using the newly freed up needle, knit 6 stitches.
Then with a free needle pick up and knit 10 or 11 stitches along the heel flap, the last one being a M1 using the strand just before the instep stitches.
Place the first 6 stitches that you knit onto the end of the picking up needle, having the last stitch be a M1 and not just a knit into a loop. This helps keep things tight.
note: the reason I do the picking up on a free needle is incase I don’t get the right number of stitches at first.
Then knit across the instep.
Then, M1 (you’ll need a spare needle to help you do this, picking up the loop and knitting into the back of it.)
And pick up 10 more stitches. On same needle, knit the last six stitches.
Now that everything is all assembled -
Row 1: knit a round.
Row 2: (decrease round)
needle 1: knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
needle 2: knit
needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to the end
Work these two rows until you have 40 stitches.
(Again, I didn’t remember exactly. What matters is having a number of stitches divisible by four that will fit the foot.)
The Foot:
Knit in stocking stitch until the sock is 51 rows from the start of the turning of the heel.
This number of rows is dependent on 2 factors - how long the given foot is, and how many stitches you have on the needle.
If the foot is x inches long you will need 7x rows.
(7 being the number of rows per inch that you are knitting).
Then you need to subtract how many rows you will knit for the toe.
This number will be number of stitches on needles minus 8 (40 - 8 = 32),
then divided by four (32/4 = 8) plus half that number (8 + 8/2 = 12).
So you will need to stop for the toe at total number of rows needed for foot minus 12.
Annie's foot is 9 inches long, that means I needed 63 rows in all, with 12 needed for the toe,
so I stopped at 63 - 12, which equals 51.
The Toe:
Arrange the stitches so that you have 10/20/10 stitches on the needles.
1st row:
needle 1: knit to the last three stitches, k2tog, k1
needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to the last three, k2tog, k1
needle 3: k1 ssk, knit to the end.
2nd row: knit a round
Work these two rows until you have 20 stitches.
Then, work only the decrease round until you have 8 stitches.
Break off the yarn and thread it securely through the 8 stitches.
Put the end on the inside and weave it is.
Weave in the cast on tail.
Now make a second sock to match. (This is the really tricky part)
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