A New Formula I think will be very handy

I was looking for a sweater to make for Emily using a motley pink yarn that she had picked out.  I only bought three 100 gram balls as the yarn was a bit expensive and very flashy.  But then the problem of finding something unique to do with the yarn, but only requiring 300 grams, or 600 yards to fit a six year old.  One pattern that I liked was an adult sweater called Shalom that was knit at a tension of 13 stitches per 10 cm.  The yarn for Emily's sweater has a tension of 20 stitches per 10 cm.  Also, the sweater produced a 33 inch chest, and I think for Emily I would need a 24 inch chest on the sweater.  So how to accommodate all the variables?

After running this all around in my head, scrutinizing the patterns directions, I came up with a formula that I think just might work.  If:

   x = desired size
   y = original size
   a =  original tension
   b = desired tension

Then: the adjustment factor need is

   y/x times b/a

or:

  33/24 times 13/20

which equals 1.1188

Now my physics professor in college said that there's no point going beyond the second decimal place,
so I have a factor of 1.12.

So with the formula in hand I shall now try to see if it works by knitting this sweater for Emily, who is pictured at left in the last sweater that I made for her.  It was a pattern that I found in a 1950's McCall pattern for a pleated skirt and jacket, with the sweater pattern thrown in for good measure.  That was back in the day when it was assumed that women knew how to do all sorts of things.  But then that's another story.

I will now make the sweater as long, relatively speaking, for Emily.  And I'm really hoping that I can find a really cool butterfly button for the sweater.

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn, Encore Colospun

Tension: 5 sts per 10 cm

Needles:  I'll have to check this out.

The sweater is knit from the top down.

Starting with the neck, using _____ needles, cast on 75 stitches.

Knit the next 5 rows - that's in garter stitch.

Make button hole:  knit 2, yf, k2tog, knit to the end.

Knit the next row.

This next row is a tricky one.  I think I will increase 44 stitches, which will give me 119 stitches.

First Increase row:  knit 5, (M1, k1, M1, k2) repeat to last 7, then M1,k1, M1, k6 (119 sts)

Next row: knit

Start the yoke pattern:

row 1: k5, (p1tbl, k1) repeat to the last 6 stitches, p1tbl, k5

row 2: k5, (k1tbl, p1) repeat to the last 6 stitches, k1tbl, k5

Repeat these 2 rows 3 times.

Next row: knit

Second Increase Row:  This will be increasing 30 stitches

k5, (M1, k3, M1, k4, M1, k4) repeat to last 15, then M1, k3, M1, k4, M1, k8.

to be continued

What on earth have I been up to!?

I can't believe that I haven't posted on this site for 2 years!!!! You'd think I'd given up knitting. Well I haven't . But I have been through a lot of troubles in the missing time, making me a bit dysfunctional. But not to worry - I'm still knitting.

I got a new grand-daughter last May - Lizzie (Ellie as her parents call her). I've made three sweaters for her, two pairs of leggings, and two pairs of mittens. I also made a sweater and 2 pairs of mittens for her brother.

And I made a gorgeous purple vintage cardi for Emily, grand-daughter #1, with mittens to match. I've also made two pairs of mittens for myself, having lost my favorite pair.

And then there's the preemie hats - I've made seventeen of them. Now I just need to find out who to give them to. This is highly problematic. I was supposed to send them to New York by a certain date, but due to unforeseen happenings I missed the date. I'm thinking that I will just send them off to New York anyway. They can surely figure out what to do with them The preemie hats are a perfect fit on a Pleasant Company doll. I took a picture of each hat on a doll.

Well very soon I hope to load up some pictures, and also I will post the patterns for some of the hats and such.

My very latest project is a pair of socks for ME. I've come to the realization that home-made socks are in fact better than store bought. I'm making a pair out of bamboo and nylon from one of my favorite knitting books - Folk Socks, by Nancy Bush. It is called Challet Sock, and is patterened with twisted traveling stitches. At first it was a bit hard to figure out, and I'm not saying I've totally figured it out, but what I've got looks good, so I'm going with it.

Be Back.

A suit for a 15 inch "barbie" I've named Genvieve

This doll came with a "barbie type" dress that I didn't like, so I took it off and gave it to goodwill. Then I got a skirt made for her, but she REALLY needs a jacket to go with the skirt. I say "jacket" because she looks like she's from the 40s and a suit would be what she's should wear. It's going to be a jacket with a peplum (sp).

material: green Beehive 4ply
tension: 30 sts/ 10 cm
needles: 2 1/2 mm

Dolls measurements:
.....waist: 5 1/2 inches
.....bust: 7 1/2 inches
.....back 3 inches
.....neck to waist - 3 inches
.....top of arm to neck 1 inch
.....neck: 3 1/4 inches
.....arm hole to wrist: 4 inches
.....upper arm: 2 1/2 inches
.....wrist: 1 3/4 inches
.....across front of chest: 4 1/2 inches
.....neck to feet: 12 1/2
.....waist to floor: 10
.....hips: 8 1/2 inches
.....head circumferance: 7 1/2 inches

Skirt

Using size 2 1/2 mm double pointed needles, cast on 150 stitches.

1st 5 rnds:  (k10, p5) repeat around

6th rnd: (k4, k2tog, k4, p5) repeat around

7th - 10th rnds: work as presented

11th rnd: (k9, p3, p2tog) repeat around

12th - 15th rnds: work as presented

16th rnd: (k3, ssk, k4, p4) repeat around

17th - 20th rnds: work as presented

21st rnd: (k8, p2, p2tog) repeat around

22nd - 25th rnds: work as presented

26th rnd: (k3, k2tog, k3, p3) repeat around

27th - 30th: work as presented

31st rnd: (k7, p1, p2tog) repeat around

32nd - 35th rnds: work as presented

36th rnd: (k2, ssk, k3, p2) repeat around

37th -40th rnds: work as presented

41st rnd (k2, k2tog, k2, p2) repeat around

42nd - 45th rnds: work as presented

46th rnd: (k2, k2tog, k1, p2) repeat around

47th - 50th rnds: work as presented

51st rnd: (k1, ssk, k1, p2) repeat around

52nd - 53rd rnds: work as presented

54th rnd: (k1, k2tog, p2) repeat around

work seven rounds in 2/2 ribbing

Cast off.

Weave in the ends.

Jacket

peplum

With 2 1/2 mm needles cast on 6 stitches.

Work as follows: k2, (p2, k4) repeat to last 4 sts, p2, k2

Working back and forth, knit stitches as present for 8 more rows.

Decrease row: ssk, (p2, k2tog, ssk) repeat to last 4 sts, p2, k2tog.

Work 5 rows of 2/2 ribbing.

Work now in stocking stitch.

bodice

note: the first 10 stitches are the right front, the next 20 stitches are the back, and the final 10 stitches are the left front.   To the armhole will be 14 rows.   There will be 6 sts increased on each front and 10 stitches will be increased for the back.

Work 2 rows in stocking stitch.  Then on the back increase one stitch on each side on the 3rd and every following alternate row until 10 stitches have been increased on the back.  Also increase on the side fronts on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th increase rows, and also increase on the front dart on the 2nd, 4th, and 6th increase rows.

note: the dart on the left front  knit 5, m1, knit to the side seam.  Then the dart for the right front is knit to the stitch just before the last five, m1, knit 5.

.

. I'll write up the rest of this in a bit.

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Sleeves:

Cast on 13 stitches.

row 1: k1, p1, k1, ...

row 2: purl

row 3 k1, p1, k1, ....

Now work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 11th, 21st, and 31st rows.

When there are 40 rows in all, start the decreases.

row 41: cast off 2 sts, work to end.

row 42: cast of 2 sts, purl to the end.

row 43: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1

work 5 more rows in stocking stitch, then decrease the top.

row 49: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1

row 50: p1, p2tog, purl to the last 3, p2togtbl, p1

row 51: k1, ssk, knit to the last 3, k2tog, k1

row 52: this is the cast off row, but for something different, the first 2 sts, and the last 2 sts are p2tog.  This helps round the top.

At this point sew sew up the front to the back, and sew in the sleeves.

A New Knitting Book for Christmas

It's not quite right if one doesn't get a knitting book for Christmas. The one I got I actually picked out myself. Well actually, one could not possibly think that their husband could pick out a knitting book all by himself. The fun thing is that I had completely forgotten about the book, so it really was a surprise.

I received Nicky Epstein's new book Knitting On Top of the World. It's an incredible book. In my estimation Nicky Epstien is the most amazing knitter and designer. I can't right off the bat think of another American knitting designer that I like - okay I just remembered - it's Nancy Bush. She's also amazing.

I was reading the reviews of this book on Amazon, and for the most part people don't like it. But a few free thinkers liked it very much. I think it's terrific, though I'll be the first to admit that there are many objects in the book I'd never make. But most knitting books are like that. At least the ones I wouldn't make have scope for the imagination, and that's worth a lot.

Take for example the Edwardian lace coat on the cover. No matter how it was designed, I wouldn't make something like that, but there are numerous lace patterns in that coat that would be great for a scarf or baby blanket. Or how about the Fair Isle Tam Capelet - that thing is so ridiculous that it gave me and my family all a good laugh.

I think that the Black Forest Mitts are gorgeous, but I would not make the bobbly buffs, that's just a bit much for me.

Mittens for Emily

I tried several mittens before I got it right. It's because it got quite cold. The first mitten I tried was chunky, and much much too small. The second mitten was not quite as chunky, but in the end was too small, and too difficult to get her thumb in the thumb place. So finally I came to the conclusion that you can't really make chunky mittens for a two year old. At that I did a lot of research, looking at other people's patterns for mittens for kids. I could see that Emily is just on the borderline between thumb/no thumb. And then while I was going all the looking, I also inadvertently came across a ball of wool that I'd been looking for for quite some time, and it seemed perfect. It's the same yarn that I used for the little mitten I had made for Emily when she was three months old.

I settle on making a mitten that is of lovely part angora wool and knits at a tension of 22 stitches to the 10 cm. The yarn is from Italy, and I'm quite certain it's not sold in America any more, but it's fabulous stuff. I tried the unfinished mitten on Emily as soon as I could, and I could see that she really liked it. It's soooo soft.

Material: Illusion Tweed, by Erdal Yarns (50% angora, 25% lambswool, 10% nylon, 15% acrylic) 20 grams
Needles: double pointed 4 mm needles
Tension: 22 stitches per 10 cm

Cast on 28 stitches (10, 8, 10) and work in 1/1 ribbing for 4 rows.
Purl a round, then work 2 rows in 1/1 ribbing.
Purl a round, then work 3 rows in 1/1 ribbing. (This is a mistake, but if I'm to get the other mitten to match I have to go with it.)
Pulr a round, and work 4 rows in 1/1 ribbing.
This next round is to bring the cuff in just a bit for snugness.
Cr3F, p1, repeat all the way around.
Work 2 round in 1/1 ribbing.

Work 2 round in stocking stitch.
Now start the increase for the gusset:
K14, M1, K14.
work one round even
K14, M1, K1, M1, K14
work one round even
K14, M1, K3, M1, K14
work one round even
K14, M1, K5, M1, K14
work one round even
K14, M1, K7, M1, K14
work one round even
On this next round the thumb is put on a length of yarn.
K14, slip next 9 stitches on to a short piece of yarn, K14
Work 15 rows in stocking stitch.

Decrease for the top of the mitten:
Place the stitches so that the first needle has 14 stitches, and the next two each have 7 stitches.
rnd 1:( K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k4)(k4, k2tog, k1)
rnd 2: work even
rnd 3: (k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k3)(k3, k2tog, k1)
rnd 4: work even
rnd 5: (k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k2)(k2, k2tog, k1)
rnd 6: (k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk, k1)(k1, k2tog, k1)
rnd 7: (k1, ssk, k2tog, k1)(k1, ssk)(k2tog, k1)

Break off the yarn and put the end on a needle and thread through the stitches.

Thumb: Place the reserved stitches on to needles, three to a needle.
Knit up 11 stitches, beginning by picking up a stitch, then knitting the nine stitches, then pick up another stitch.
Knit 4 more rounds.
Decreasing the tip of the thumb:
rnd 1: k1, ssk, knit to the last three stitches, k2tog, k1
rnd 2: work even
rnd 3: ssk, k1, ssk, k1, ssk, k1
Break off the yarn, and thread through the stitches.

Sew in the ends;

Make another one to match.

Starting a new sweater for Emily

This is going to be a new one like the red one I made last winter. I put it on her the other day - because it was suddenly quite cold - and it fit her perfectly, even though she has grown. I made that same sweater several times in the past for my girls and for a niece. It's definitely one of my all time favorite patterns. Of course I've only made it for girls, but now I have a new little grandson. I think it would work just fine for a boy, but the boy's parents might think otherwise.

Yarn - 4 ply or fingering - sock wool is fine, but anything that gets a 7-8 inches per inch tension
needles needed to get that tension, two sizes - one for ribbing and one for the main knitting

For this sweater I'm using Sirdar Snuggly 4 ply - starlight


My needles are a 2.5 mm needles and 11 UK needles (3 mm I think)
Neither of these have an American equivalent.
Just get your tension right on whatever needles you have.

Size: this will be a size 2, from the late 1970's
In other words, it fits snugly.

Back: Cast on 89 stitches on the smaller needles.
Work for 16 rows in 2/2 ribbing.
Change to the larger needles and work in stocking stitch for 48 rows.
armhole: Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. (81 sts)
Then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 18 rows. (63 sts).
Now work in stocking stitch for the next 26 rows.
slope the shoulders:

row 1: cast off 6 stitches, knit to the end.
row 2: cast off 6 stitches, purl to the last 2, then purl 2 together through the back of the loop.
row 3: ssk, then cast off 4, then knit to the last 2 stitches and knit those two together.
row 4: purl 2 together, cast off 4, purl to the end.

Place the remaining 39 stitches on some kind of stitch holder.

Sleeves:

I am making both of these on the same needles, or at the same time.

with the 2.5 mm needles cast on - - stitches from one ball of wool, and then -- stitches from another ball of the same wool. Then work in 2/2 ribbing for - - rows.

Scarves

I have never completed an adult scarf. I find it sooooo tedious to knit one. But that doesn't mean I haven't started them, or that I don't intend to finish them.

The first one of importance is an Alice Starmore scarf from In the Hebrides. It's more of a shawl than a scarf, and I'm making it out of an Alice Starmore wool in red. But alas, I don't know where the last ball of wool is, and ... a moth ate through a strand of the wool. I know ... I should keep my unfinished (and finished) wool projects in a cedar chest or I should make a cedar closet to keep my wool. It's a very lacy pattern, and I'm not sure how I will mend the hole created by the moth. I hate moths!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm also knitting a lovely natural alpaca scarf for Corey. I started it a loonngg time ago, but it is so lovely. The problem is that I made up the pattern myself, and I have trouble remembering what it is when I start up knitting it from time to time. And at the moment I have no idea where it is. I really must come to terms with my unfinished projects. What that means is that I simply must finish them!

And if I remember correctly, I was working on a scarf with a pattern that someone got from a lady in the Metro in Paris. I can't even remember what I was making it out of. But if I know me it was red. I LOVE RED.