Sunday, February 17, 2008

Emily's Cabled Pink Cardi

This sweater is from a Patons booklet that I bought in Hong Kong in the early 80s. It's number is 80, and the title is Baby Scene: Knitting and Crochet for Tinies and Toddlers. I finally made it for Emily, after having started it much earlier for I have no idea who. A girl, obviously. But I had a picture of Emily in it on my blog and someone asked where it came from. I'm pretty sure it would be hard to find anywhere, except maybe on e-bay. Actually I just found it for sale on a site They are asking $12. I paid HK$7.50. I think the book can be had for a price. But anyway, here's the cardigan directions:

Sizes to fit chest 18 inches, 20 inches, 22 inches
Length of cardigan 9 1/2 inches 10 1/2 inches 11 1/2 inches
Sleeve length 5 inches 6 inches 8 inches
Material: the pattern calls for Patons Fairytale 4ply (Courtelle/Bri-Nylon)

button-up(cardigan 20 gram balls 4 ball 4 ball4 5 balls
Needles: a set of both 2 3/4 mms (12UK, 2US) and 3 1/4 (10UK, 3US)
Buttons: 6 for the button-up
Tension: 14 stitches and 18 rows for a 2 inch square swatch

note 1: I used Patons Beehive 4ply. They both have the same yardage - 240 yds/50 grams. Dale Baby Ull has 189 yards, that's because it's all washable wool. I do not like using cotton, which has no give despite all the stretching out it does, and I don't like all acrylic (or should I say, all synthetic) which looks pretty bad after a few wearings. What ever you use you, or someone, will be happier if it is machine washable.

note 2: I always change some things in a pattern.


With the 2 3/4 mm needles cast on 63 (71, 77) stitches.
Work in 1/1 ribbing for 10 (12,14) rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end on the last row.

The increase row looks like this: p1, k1, M1, work to the last 2, M1, k1, p1 (65, 73, 79) stitches on the needle.

Change to the 3 1/4 mm needles. Work in stocking stitch until the work measures 5 (5 1/2, 6) inches, with the right side facing for the next row.

shape the raglans as follows:
Cast of 3 (4, 4) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. (59, 63, 69)
row 3: k1, ssk, work to the last 3, k2tog, k1
row 4: purl
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 21 (23, 25) stitches on the needle.
Work one more row with out decreasing.
If you are making the v-neck cast off firmly, otherwise place stitches on a spare needle.

RIGHT FRONT  this is the side where the center is on the right side of the needle as the front is facing you.

With the 2 3/4 mm needles cast on 31 (35, 39) stitches.
Work 10 (12, 14) rows in 1/1 ribbing, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last ribbing row.
Increase on stitch on the outside edge of the first and second sizes. (32, 36, 39)

Change to 3 1/4 mm needles and work in pattern as follows:

row 1: k1, *(p2, Tw2F, Tw2B, Pe, k1)* 3 times, knit to the end.
row 2: P4 (8, 11) (k3, p4, k2) 3 times, p1
row 3: k1, (p2, k4, p2, k1) 3 times, knit to the end
row 4: as row 2
row 5: k1, (p2, Tw2B, Tw2F, p2, k1) 3 times, knit to the end.
row 6: as row 2

These 6 rows for the pattern. Continue until the Front matches the Back at the armhole at the side edge with the wrong side facing.

Keeping with the pattern shape the raglan as for the back.
Work until you have 16 (17, 19) stitches on the needle with the right side facing.

Shape neck:

While still decreasing at the raglan side as before, knit the first 4 (5, 5) stitches and place them on a spare length of wool. The working on the remaining stitches decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 4 (4, 5) rows. Then continue, decreasing only at the raglan edge until only three stitches remain.
Work one row.
Next row, k2tog, k1
Then next row p2, turn and k2tog and place the single stitch on to the needle with the back to save it.

LEFT FRONT this is the side in which the armhole is on the right front side of the needle.

Work in correspondence with the RIGHT FRONT, reversing the shapings and noting that the ssk worked in place of k2tog at the raglan shaping and the 6 rows of the patterns are worked as follows:


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